South Downtown, Warsaw

South Downtown
The location of the City Information System of the South Downtown in the district of Downtown.
The location of the City Information System of the South Downtown in the district of Downtown.
Coordinates: 52°13′22.33″N 21°00′56.94″E / 52.2228694°N 21.0158167°E / 52.2228694; 21.0158167
Country Poland
VoivodeshipMasovian
City and countyWarsaw
DistrictDowntown
Administrative neighbourhoodsKoszyki
Krucza
Oleandrów
Powiśle-Solec
Elevation
120 m (390 ft)
Time zoneUTC+1 (CET)
 • Summer (DST)UTC+2 (CEST)
Area code+48 22

South Downtown (Polish: Śródmieście Południowe [ɕrudˈmjɛɕ.t͡ɕɛ pɔ.wudˈɲɔ.vɛ]) is a neighbourhood in Warsaw, Poland, located in the Downtown district.[1] It is mainly a mid-rise residential area, predominantly consisting of tenements and multifamily residential buildings, as well as office and commercial spaces.[2]

The area includes the Marshal Residential District housing estate, designed in the 1950s in the socialist realistic style.[3][4] There are also numerous historic tenements, some dating to the late 19th and early 20th centuries.[5][6] The two tallest skyscrapers, designed in the International Style, are LIM Center and Chałubińskiego 8 (170m and 150m respectively).[7] South Downtown also includes green spaces, such as part of Mokotów Field park complex and Marshal Edward Rydz-Śmigły Park.[8][9] The campus and most faculty buildings of Warsaw University of Technology are located there.[10][11] Cultural institutions include the National Museum in Warsaw, the Mausoleum of Struggle and Martyrdom and the Museum of the Earth of the Polish Academy of Sciences.[12][13][14] The neighbourhood includes three historic Roman Catholic churches, the Church of the Holiest Saviour, St. Alexander Church, and Sts. Apostles Peter and Paul Church.[15][16][17] South Downtown also includes the Seym and Senate Complex, which houses the lower and upper houses of the Parliament of Poland.[18] There are also headquarters of numerous government ministries and agencies, and foreign embassies.[19][20] The Politechnika station of the M1 line of the Warsaw Metro is also located in the neighbourhood.[21][22]

The area of South Downtown began developing in the 18th century from small suburban towns, including Bielino, Bożydar-Kałęczyn, and Nowogrodzka.[23][5][24] Between 1768 and 1770 the Stanisław Axis was developed which is a series of roads and urban squares which connect the city with the Ujazdów Castle.[25] In 1770, fortification lines, known as the Lubomirski Ramparts, were erected surrounding the city.[26] In 1791, the area was incorporated into the city of Warsaw.[24]

Development continued in the 19th century, especially following the opening of the Vienna Station in 1845.[27] It led to the construction of luxury tenements, with restaurants, stores and services in the area.[6] In 1898, the Warsaw University of Technology was founded.[28] In 1910, in the southwest part of the neighbourhood, the Mokotów Aerodrome was opened.[29]

In 1939, while the city was under German occupation during the Second World War, the section of South Downtown centred on Szucha Avenue was turned into the Police District, a restricted area housing the Security Police and the Gestapo.[30][31] During the Warsaw Uprising, from 1 September 1944, the area became a battleground of German forces and Polish participants of the Home Army. Following the defeat of the uprising, the population was evicted, and a large portion of the city was razed, including South Downtown, which had already been heavily destroyed.[32] The neighbourhood and many of its historical buildings were rebuilt after the war.[33]

Followed the end of the conflict, new housing estates were built, as well as the Marshal Edward Rydz-Śmigły Park. Between the 1970s and 1990s, development continued with the complex of skyscrapers, multistorey stores and apartment buildings named the West Wall.[34] It included two skyscrapers, Chałubińskiego 8 and LIM Center, opened in 1975 and 1989. Throughout the 1970s and 1980s, the area of the former Mokotów Aerodrome was developed into a large urban park, the Mokotów Field.[35][8] In 1995, the Politechnika station of the Warsaw Metro opened.[21][22]

History

Suburban area

The 1785 painting by Zygmunt Vogel, depicting the Three Crosses Square.

In the 18th century, several independent satellite towns (jurydyka) of the Warsaw agglomeration were established with royal decrees. Located outside Old Warsaw and New Warsaw, within the area of modern South Downtown, they operated independently, with their own laws and tax exemptions.[36] This included Bożydar-Kałęczyn in the area of modern Jerusalem Avenue, established in 1702; southern portion of Bielino, in the area of Wilcza Street established in 1766; and Nowogrodzka, in the area of Nowogrodzka Street, established in 1767.[23][5][37][24]

Between 1768 and 1770, the Stanisław Axis was developed from the initiative of the king Stanisław August Poniatowski. It formed an urban layout of streets, connecting Warsaw and the Ujazdów Castle, and involving five roundabouts, later developing into public squares, now known as Crossroads, Polytechnic, Saviour, Three Crosses, and Union of Lublin. Its main axis was formed by the Royal Road, connecting the castle to the Wola Election Field, which hosted the royal elections, and was placed alongside the Piaseczno Canal. The other main streets of the layout were Nowowiejska, Niemcewicza, Prądzyńskiego Streets, and Emancipation Avenue.[25][5]

The east pavilion of Mokotów Tollhouses at the Union of Lublin Square, built in 1818.

In 1770, fortification lines known as Lubomirski Ramparts were developed around the Warsaw agglomeration.[26][38] Tollhouses were established at roads crossing the fortifications, including at the Union of Lublin Square. In 1818, they were replaced with two new neoclassical pavilions, called the Mokotów Tollhouses.[39][40]

In the past, the Żurawka river flowed though the area of South Downtown, until it was channelled through underground pipes and canals in the 18th century, underneath modern streets of Żurawia, Czerniakowska, and Okrąg. It began at the swamps near modern Starynkiewicz Square, and flowed out to the Vistula river. Due to a large quantity of flowing water, it was a very important water source in southern Warsaw.[41][42]

In 1774, the neighbourhood of Nowa Jerozolima (lit.'New Jerusalem') was established as part of Bożydar-Kałęczyn, then owned by August Kazimierz Sułkowski. It was inhabited by a Jewish community, located between the modern Artur Zawisza Square and the Kaliska Street. The settlement existed in violation of a law which forbid Jewish people, from living in Old Warsaw, and in a 2 mile (3.2 km) radius from it.[23] As such the city hall of Old Warsaw sued Sułkowski, demanding the neighbourhood be destroyed. Despite resident's protests it was demolished on 23 January 1776, with its inhabitants displaced, and their trading goods confiscated.[43]

In 1776, prince Kazimierz Poniatowski founded two garden complexes, Na Książecem and Na Górce, which would later form Na Książęcem Park and Frascati Gardens respectively. They were located to the east of the Three Crosses Square, in the area of the current Książęca Street.[44][45] The Na Książęcem Park also included the Elizeum, an underground rotunda with corridors and caves.[46]

In the late 18th century, the agricultural estate of Koszyki was founded by King Stanisław August Poniatowski. It was located within a triangular area, marked out by Koszykowa, Śniadeckich, and Noakowskiego Streets. In 1778, it was given to diplomat Pierre-Maurice Glayre, who built there a small resistance know as the Koszyki Manor House. Over time, a small settlement also developed nearby. The estate changed ownership several times, and in 1872, it was partitioned and sold for the construction of tenement houses. The manor house itself was deconstructed in 1899.[47]

In 1784, the hamlet of Nowa Wieś (lit.'New Village') was also founded nearby, from the initiative of King Stanisław August Poniatowski, for people displaced from the village of Ujazdów, due to construction of the Ujazdów Castle. The settlement consisted of 12 houses, symmetrically placed in two rows along the Royal Road (also known as Wolska Avenue), now forming Nowowiejska Street, and located between Saviour and Polytechnic Squares.[5][48] The village also owned 106 hectares of farmlands, which were very profitable to local residents.[49]

Urban development

The St. Barbara Chappel, built in 1782.

In 1791, the Free Royal Cities Act abolished the satellite towns in Warsaw agglomeration, including Bielino, Bożydar-Kałęczyn, and Nowogrodzka, joining them together with Old Warsaw, and New Warsaw, in into a singular entity, forming the city of Warsaw. Its execution was halted by Targowica Confederation, delaying the administrative implementation until 1794.[24]

On 9 August 1783, the Holy Cross Cemetery was opened near the Koszyki Manor House, outside of city boundaries, between Marszłkowska, Nowogrodzka, Plater, and Wspólna Streets. It was operated by the Catholic parish of the Holy Cross Church. Following the Third Partition of Poland in 1795, the Prussian administration outlawed burials of deceased in the city, resulting in a large increase in the popularity of the cemetery. By 1820, it was overcrowded, and in total, over 130,000 people were buried there. It was closed for new burials in 1831, and fully shot down in 1836. By 1851, the unmaintained cemetery fell into decay, and in 1859, the municipal authorities decided to demolish it. The families were given the possibility to move their relatives to the Powązki Cemetery until 1 January 1860, after which the remaining bodies were relocated to mass graves. In the following five years, The cemetery was demolished over the next five years, with trees and bushes planted in its place.[50]

In 1866, a former cemetery chapel at the current 68 Wspólna Street, became a parish church, known as the St. Barbara Chappel.[17] Between 1883 and 1886, the Sts. Apostles Peter and Paul Church was built nearby at 18 Plater Street. It was designed in the Romanesque Revival style.[51]

In 1818, the farmlands to the south of Warsaw were bought by the city, and turned into a military training area, later known as the Mokotów War Field.[52][53] In around 1825, it became the cavalry drill site.[54] The area was incorporated into the city in 1916.[55]

The St. Alexander Church at the Three Crosses Square, built in 1825. Photography made sometime between 1910 and 1926.

In 1825, the St. Aleksander Church, was built at the Three Crosses Square, belonging to the Catholic denomination.[16] It was designed by Chrystian Piotr Aigner, in the neoclassical style.[56] Its construction was proposed in 1915 by Alexander I, the Tsar of Russia and King of Poland, during his first visit to the city.[57]

In 1827, a garden square known as the Swiss Valley Park was opened between Piękna Street and Róż Avenue.[58]

In 1870, the Warsaw Pomological Garden was also founded as an urban park and an orchard, placed between Nowogrodzka, Plater, Wspólna and Chałubińskiego Streets. It was destroyed in 1944, during the Second World War.[59][60]

In the first half of the 19th century, a horce racecourse was built at the Mokotów War Field, thanks to the efforts of Ivan Paskevich, the Viceroy of Poland. The first race officially organised by the Kingdom of Poland was held in 1841. Various races and exhibitions were held there in the following years, until were eventually outlawed in 1861. The ban was lifted in 1880.[61][62] In 1887, a new venue, the Mokotów Field Racecourse, was built at Polna Street, and in 1895, it hosted the first annual Great Warsaw Race, the most prestigious horse race in Poland.[61][63] The venue was closed down in 1938, and its events were moved to the Służewiec Racecourse, at Puławska Street.[61]

Marszałkowska Street sometime before 1918.

The major development in the area of South Downtown began in the second half of the 19th century, with the construction of the Vienna Station in 1845, which became the terminal station of the Warsaw–Vienna railway line. It was built at the intersection of Jerusalem Avenue and Marszałkowska Street, with luxury tenements alongside both roads, together with numerous restaurants, stores, and services.[27][6][64] By 1912, the area extended to the Union of Lublin Square, and featured numerous restaurants, stores, and services.[5][6]

In 1895, the Maurycy Mitte Secondary School of Mechanics and Machinery, a vocational school of mechanics, was opened at 4 and 6 Mokotowska Street. It eventually become known as the Hipolit Wawelberg and Stanisław Rotwand Engineering School, and since 1909, it unofficially functioned as a technological university. It was nationalised in 1919 and received its official university status in 1929.[65] In 1933, it moved to a new location at 14 Św. Andrzeja Boboli Street, where it operated until its closing in 1951.[66][67] Its former building was destroyed during the Second World War.[68] In 1898, the Warsaw University of Technology (then known as the Tsar Nicholas II Polytechnic Institute) was also founded at 81 Marszałkowska Street. In 1901 it moved to a new building at 1 Polytechnic Square. The same year, several other faculty buildings were also opened. Its campus continued developing in the following decades, with new faculties opened throughout the 1920s and 1930s.[28]

In the late 1890s, the area around Ujazdów Avenue, became a luxurious neighbourhood mostly inhabited by a wealthy Russian population.[69] In 1894, the St. Michael the Archangel Church was opened at 12 Ujazdów Avenue and next to the Crossroads Square. As a Russian Orthodox temple, it mainly served Russian soldiers and civilians living in the neighbourhood. Following the retreat of the Imperial Russian Army from Warsaw in 1915, the Russian population mostly fled the city, and the building remained mostly unoccupied and unused, being eventually torn down in 1923.[70] [71]

In 1881, the second horsecar in the city, was opened connecting the Union of Lublin Square with Muranów, and was replaced with electric trams in 1908.[72][73][74] In 1892, the Warszawa narrow-gauge railway station (later renamed to Warszawa Mokotów in 1930), was opened at the square, between Puławska and Chocimska Streets. It was a part of two lines operated by the Wilanów Railway, with a third line, operated by the Grójec Commuter Railway added in 1898.[75][76] The station was moved in 1935 further south, to the intersection of Puławska and Odyńca Streets, where it operated until 1938.[77]

In 1909, a large market hall known as the Koszyki Hall opened at 61 and 63 Koszykowa Street.[78]

The Mokotów Aerodrome in the 1930s.

In 1910, the Mokotów Aerodrome was established at the Mokotów War Field, featuring dirt runways. It became the city's first aerodrome, and until the outbreak of the First World War, it was a popular civil and sports airfield.[29] Following the beginning of the conflict in 1915, it began being used by the Imperial Russian Air Service, which stationed there six fighter planes. In August of the same year, the aerodrome was captured and used by the German Air Combat Forces. Its infrastructure was updated and expanded, and 21 new hangars were constructed, including those for the Parseval airships.[79] Following the end of the war, and the establishment of the Second Polish Republic, in 1919, the aerodrome became a base for the growing military and civilian aviation industry.[80] Since 1920, international passenger flights were chartered there. In 1929, it became the headquarters of the then-established national LOT Polish Airlines.[79] It was also a venue for numerous air shows, parades, and international aviation tournaments.[81] In 1934, the passenger traffic was moved to the Warsaw Chopin Airport in Okęcie.[82]

In 1918, an abandoned building of the all-female high school, located at Wiejska Street was adopted to house the Legislative Sejm of Poland.[83] Following the renovations, the first government meeting was hosted in the building on 10 February 1919.[84] In 1922, a nearby abandoned lazaret building, was also adopted to house the Senate of Poland.[85] Between 1925 and 1935, the complex had been furtherly expanded.[84][86]

The Church of the Holiest Saviour at the Saviour Square, built in 1927.

Between 1901 and 1927, the Church of the Holiest Saviour, which belongs to the Catholic denomination, was built at the Saviour Square.[87][88]

In 1925, the portion of the Frascati Gardens was sold of for the construction of a neighbourhood of villas. In the 1930s, the area was further developed with luxury tenements.[89]

In 1927, two railway stations were opened at Nowogrodzka Street, including Warszawa Marszałkowska EKD, located between Marszałkowska and Poznańska Streets, which was operated by the Electric Commuter Railways, and Warszawa Chałubińskiego WKD, between Chałubińskiego and Plater Streets, operated by the Warsaw Commuter Railway. They were closed in 1957 and 1963 respectively.[90][91][92]

From 1927 to 1938, the new building of the Warsaw National Museum was built at 1 and 3 Jerusalem Avenue. Some portions of the museum were opened to the public years before the completion of the construction.[93] In 1933, the Polish Army Museum was opened in the eastern wing of the building, where it remained until 2023, when it moved to the Warsaw Citadel.[94][95]

In 1934, the Telecommunication Systems Centre, which housed the Central Telecommunications Office, was opened at 45 Nowogrodzka Street. It became the first building in Poland to be built with the steel frame construction.[96]

Second World War

The headquarters of the Security Police and Gestapo at 25 Szucha Avenue, after 1940.

On 1 September 1939, Nazi Germany had invaded Poland, beginning the Second World War.[97] During the siege of Warsaw, the Mokotów Aerodrome was used as the Polish Air Force base housing fighter planes used the air defence.[98] The city of Warsaw capitulated to the invading German forces on 28 September 1939, becoming part of the occupied territories of the General Government.[99] It was captured and used by the for the anti-aircraft defence.[98]

Between October 1939 and April 1940, as part of the Intelligentsia mass shootings, the members of Polish intelligentsia, including teachers, priests, physicians, and other prominent members of Polish society, were executed by German officers in the gardens of the Sejm building. It remains unknown how many people were murdered, however, historians estimate the number between a few hundred and a thousand victims.[100][101]

The Police District was established in the southeastern portion of the South Downtown, with Ujazdów Avenue, Nowowiejska Street, Klonowa Street, and the Flory Street forming its boundaries. Szucha Avenue became its main road, and was renamed to Police Street.[30] The district was designated only for German population, with other ethnicities being banned from entering it. The Government District located in the area of the Piłsudski Square in North Downtown, which housed government buildings had same restrictions.[30] Since April 1942, both areas were connected via a tram line no. 0, which was also designated only for German passengers.[102]

The Police District was originally planned to be part of a larger German District, which would be limited only for the German population. It was envisioned to occupy most of South Downtown and a large portion of Mokotów. The plan was never realised, as, there were not enough people interested in settling in the area.[103]

The entrance to the Police District at the intersection of Litewska and Marszałkowska Street, circa 1943.

The area was transformed to house offices of the occupant law enforcement structures and apartments for their employees. The most important of them was the building of the former Ministry of Religious Affairs and Public Education located at the 25 Szucha Avenue, which was refitted into the headquarters of the Commander-in-Chief of Security Police Office of the Warsaw District, which housed the structures of the Security Police and Gestapo (Secret State Police). It employed around 300 people, with their offices being located at the second and third floors. The holding cells and interrogation rooms were located at the first floor and in the basement. They held people suspected to be connected with the Polish resistance movement. Prisoners were brutally tortured to force the confessions, causing many of them to die. Around 100 people were interrogated there every day.[31][104][105]


Other notable buildings in the area were:

The Police District was protected by security forces, stationed around its boundaries, including two battalions of the Order Police, stationed in the Seym and Senate Complex at the Wiejska Street.[112]

Throughout the war, the Polish resistance movement organized a few attacks aimed at the occupants in the Police District. On 19 May 1942, members of the Polish Socialists, disguised as customers, had planted a bomb in the casino building at 29 Szucha Avenue, which served Poles who collaborated with occupants. The explosion had killed 7 people, and wounded a few more.[113][114] On 5 October 1943, in the Operation Milke, the Agat squad of the Home Army had attempted to assassinate Alfed Milke, collaborator and officer of Gestapo. The assassination did not happen, as Milke did not come to the place of the planned attack. However, a portion of the squad, placed at Szucha Avenue, were spotted by walking by Protection Squadron officer. He was immediately shot by them, after which, the entire squad had retreated without any own casualties. The killed office was Joseph Lechner, the Obersturmführer (senior storm leader) of the Security Service, and chief of office of the Security Service and Security Police of the Warsaw District.[115] On 1 February 1944, in the Operation Kutschera, the Pegaz (previously known as Agat) squad of the Home Amy had assassinated Franz Kutschera, the SS and Police Leader of the Warsaw District, responsible for the summary executions of about 5000 people in Warsaw. It was the most important successful operation of the Home Army, aimed against high-ranking occupant officers during the war.[116][117] On 6 May 1944, in the Operation Stamm, at the Szucha Avenue, the Pegaz squad had attempted to assassinate Walter Stamm, the Sturmbannführer (assault unit leader) of the Protection Squadron, and the chief of Gestapo. The operation ended with failure, with squad losing eight people, and not managing to kill the target. It was one of the largest and deadliest operations carried out by the Home Army during the war.[118][119]

On 1 September 1944, at 5:00 PM (in the event known under codename W-Hour) the Polish resistance Home Army had begun the Operation Tempest against occupying German forces across the city, which begun the Warsaw Uprising. One of the targets of the operation was the Police District, with the key target there being the headquarters of the Security Police. It was attacked by Ruczaj Battalion and Jeleń Division, which were poorly equipped.[120]

During the first phase of fighting, partisans had managed, with huge casualties, to capture the casino building, the portion of ruins of the former building of the General Inspector of the Armed Forces (currently the building of the Chancellery of the Prime Minister), and the car workshops on Bagatela Street. They had also unsuccessfully attempted to capture the headquarters of the Security Police, which was protected b around 800 well-equipped police and Gestapo officers, commanded by Paul Otto Geibel, the Oberführer (senior leader) of the Protection Squadron, and the SS and police leader of Warsaw District. Partisans had also shot at the building from the mortar, which forced Geibel to hide in the underground shelter. After two hours of fighting, when partisans had run out of ammunition, the German forces had gone into the offensive. They had managed to cut off the portion of partisans of the Ruczaj Battalion in the casino building, commanded by lieutenant Zygmunt Manikowski (codename "Kosma"), from the rest of their forces, after which, Manikowski and his squad were killed. The rest of the partisans were pushed back to their starting positions. The wounded and captured partisans were executed.[120]

Soldiers of the Home Army in the partisan barricade, located between 22 and 27 Jerusalem Avenue, during the Warsaw Uprising, in September 1944.

On 1 September 1944, the Bełt Battalion of the Polish resistance forces managed to occupy a portion of the Jerusalem Avenue, between Marszałkowska Street and Bracka Street. In the first days of the uprising, to fortify their position, the Bełt and Kiliński Battalions built a barricade between buildings with numbers 17 (now no. 23) and 22, between Marszałkowska Street and Krucza Street. It became an important line of communications, as the only connection of partisans between the south and north portions of the city.[121][122] The barricade was under daily attacks and artillery and aerial bombardment from German forces, who tried to capture and destroy it. Despite that, the partisans managed to keep their positions there until the end of the uprising.[123]

Following the outbreak of the uprising, German officers in the city received orders to raise it to the ground and executive the entire Polish population.[124][125] It was done by expelling people from their houses, and burning buildings, section by section, starting from around the headquarters of Security Police. The inhabitants were rounded up by at Szucha Avenue, where they were selected into groups.[126][127] A portion, mostly women and children were expelled to the insurgent-controlled zones.[128] Some people were also kept as forced labourers or hostages. The remaining people were set to be executed.[129][130] Mass executions were first conducted at the Jordan garden at Bagatela Street, and later, in the ruins of the former building of General Inspector of the Armed Forces at 1 and 3 Ujazdów Avenue. Most of the people executed there were adult men and young boys deemed capable of fighting in the uprising, though in the first days, there were also killed women and young children. The bodies were cremated in the building.[129][131] After 5 August, the number of executions done in the area has decreased.[132] Since then, most of people killed there came from other parts of the city, including Siekierki, Sielce, Solec, and Upper Mokotów.[133] The executions lasted until early October.[132] While the exact numbers remain unknown, it is estimated that between five and ten thousand people were executed there.[134][135]

The uprising lasted until 3 October 1944. Following the capitulation, the population was evicted, and a large portion of the city was razed to the ground. This included South Downtown, which was already heavily destroyed during the conflict.[136][32] The neighbourhood and many of its historical buildings were rebuilt after the war.[33]

After the Second World War (1945–present)

The Constitution Square in the Marshal Residential District in the 1950s.

The Mokotów Aerodrome remained operational until 1947.[137]

Between 1946 and 1957, the Sts. Apostles Peter and Paul Church, was rebuilt in the modernist style.[138]

From 1950 to 1952, in the area along Marszałkowska Street, from Wilcza Street to the north, and Union of Lublin Square to the south, was built new housing estate of the Marshal Residential District. It was designed in the socialist realistic style and consisted of the multifamily residential buildings, constructed mostly in place of those destroyed during the Second World War, though it also incorporated several surviving tenements, mostly in its southern portion.[139][3] It also incorporated partially surviving architecture of the Saviour Square, located in its southern section, next to which was rebuilding the historic Church of the Holiest Saviour. In its northern portion was centred on then-built Constitution Square.[3][4] Between 1953 and 1957, the Marshal Residential District was expanded to the southeast, with the housing estate of Latawiec.[140][141]

In 1952, to the south of the Marshal Residential District was built the People's Army Avenue, which would later become part of the Baths Route, an expressway build between 1971 and 1974, which connects the city centre with the east side.[142][143]

In 1951, at 6 and 12 New World Street, was opened the Banking and Finance Centre, originally known as the Party House. It was built as the headquarters of the Polish United Workers' Party, which was the governing party of Poland until 1989.[144] From 1991 to 2000, the building housed the Warsaw Stock Exchange, until it moved to the Stock Exchange Center at 4 Książeca Street in 2000.[145][146]

In 1951, at 208 Independence Avenue was constructed the headquarters of the Central Statistical Office.[147] The nearby campus of the Warsaw University of Technology, also began being further developed, with new faculty buildings being opened throughout the 1950s and 1960s.[28]

In 1955, in the area of Warsaw Escarpment was opened the Central Culture Park, renamed in 1992 to the Marshal Edward Rydz-Śmigły Park. It was developed in place of the former Frascati Gardens, and also incorporated the Na Książęcem Park.[148]

In 1962, at 2 Puławska Street, next to the Union of Lublin Square was opened Supersam, the first supermarket in the country. It was considered a notable example of the modern architecture in Poland.[149] It operated until 2006, when it was deconstructed.[150]

In 1964, at 12 Waryńskiego Street was opened skyscraper Riviera, which became a dormitory for students of the Warsaw University of Technology. With the height from base to the roof equal 67 m (219.8 ft.) and a total height of around 80 m (262.5 ft.), it was the second tallest building in the city, after the Palace of Culture and Science. It kept said title until 1969.[151]

In 1974, was opened Novotel Warszawa Centrum (originally known as Hotel Forum), located at 94 and 98 Marszałkowska Street. With total height of 111 m (364.1 ft.), it was the second tallest building in the city until 1975.[152]

Throughout the 1970s and 1980s, the area of the former Mokotów Aerodrome was developed into a large urban park, known as the Mokotów Field. Its construction begun in 1977, and it was opened in sections, that were finished in 1983, 1986, and 1991.[35][8]

The LIM Center, which was the second tallest skyscraper in Warsaw from 1989 to 1998.

In 1975, in the area of the crossing of Jerusalem Avenue and Chałubińskiego Street, was begun the construction of the building complex of skyscrapers, multistorey stores and apartment buildings named the West Wall. The further development of the investment was stopped in 1989, leaving only the two first two skyscrapers to be constructed, both designed in the International Style.[34][153] The first of them, located at 8 Chałubińskiego Street, was the Chałubińskiego 8, (originally known as Intraco II), was finished in 1978, with the hight from the base to the roof equal 140 m (459.3 ft.), and the total height of 150 m (492.1 ft.). The second building, located at 65/79 Jerusalem Avenue, was finished in 1989, was LIM Center, with the height from its base to the roof equal 140 m (459.3 ft), and the total height of 170 m (557.7). Upon the end of construction, both buildings held respectively the title of the second highest building in the city, with the latter keeping it until 1998.[7]

On 7 April 1995, in the neighbourhood was opened the Politechnika station of the M1 line of the Warsaw Metro rapid transit underground system. It is located at the intersection of Waryńskiego Street and People's Army Avenue.[21][22]

The Rainbow art installation at the Saviour Square, unveiled in 2012, and removed in 2015. Photography made in 2014.

On 8 July 2012, at the Saviour Square was unveiled the Rainbow art installation, made by Julita Wójcik, which consisted of a metal arch, covered in thousands of plastic colourful flowers.[154] It became associated with the LGBT rights movement due its resemblance to its symbol, the rainbow flag. Said association, and its location near the Church if the Holiest Saviour, has caused numerous controversies and protests in conservative groups, with many calls for its removal.[155] The sculpture was set on fire at night from 12 to 13 October 2012 by an arsonist.[156] Between 2012 and 2014, the installation was set on fire by arsonists four more times, including by a large group of far-right rioters during the celebrations of the National Independence Day of Poland on 11 November 2013. It was rebuilt each time.[157][158] It was eventually permanently removed by the city on 27 August 2015.[154]

In 2013, at 2 Puławska Street near the Union of Lublin Square, was opened skyscraper Plac Unii. It functions as an office building and the shopping centre, and has the total height of 90 m (295.3 ft).[159][160] It is located within the City Information System area of Old Mokotów, at the boundary with South Downtown.[1]

In 2016, at 61 and 63 Koszykowa Street was opened new Koszyki Hall, which was built in place of the former historical building that was deconstructed in 2009. In its construction were preserved fragments of the previous hall, including its arcades.[161]

Characteristics

Housing, commercial, and office areas

The MDM Hotel at the Constitution Square.

South Downtown consists of mid-rise residential area, predominantly made out of tenements and multifamily residential buildings.[2] A prominent example of this is the housing estate of the Marshal Residential District, centred on the Marszałkowska Street, between Constitution and Saviour Squares. It consists of multifamily residential buildings designed in the socialist realistic style.[3][4] Near it is also the neighbourhood of Latawiec, placed between Crossroads Square, People's Army Avenue, and Koszykowa, Marszałkowska, and Mokotowska Streets.[162] There are also numerous historical tenements, some dating to the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Among them are the Domański Tenement,[163] Giants Tenement,[164] Griffins Tenement,[165] Kacperski Tenement,[166] and Rakman Tenement.[167]

The area also includes numerous office buildings, such as Banking and Finance Centre,[144] Focus,[168] International Business Center,[169] Norway House,[170] Ufficio Primo,[171] and Zebra Tower.[172] Two tallest skyscrapers in South Downtown, LIM Center and Chałubińskiego 8, are also predominantly dedicated to office spaces. Their heights in total and to the roof are, respectively, 170 m and 140 m, and 150 m and 140 m.[7] Other skyscrapers in the area are Novotel Warszawa Centrum, with a total height of 111 m (364.1 ft), and Riviera, a student dormitory with the architectural height to the roof of 67 m (219.8 ft), and the total height of around 80 m (262.5 ft).[152][151]

Additionally, there is also the market and food hall known as the Koszyki Hall.[161]

Within its boundaries is also housed the Warsaw Stock Exchange, the largest stock exchange in Central and Eastern Europe.[173][174]

Public spaces

The Mokotów Field near Polish Cavalry Roundabout in 2017.

In the southwestern portion of the neighbourhood, between People's Army Avenue, Waryńskiego Street, Batorego Street, and Independence Avenue, is located the Marshal Józef Piłsudski Park, which is part of the Mokotów Field park complex.[8][175]

In the northwestern portion of the neighbourhood, in the area of the Warsaw Escarpment, are also located two other parks. Between Jerusalem Avenue and Książęca Street, is located the Na Książęcem Park, and to the south from it, between Książęca and Górnośląska Streets, is located a western portion of the Marshal Edward Rydz-Śmigły Park.[9][176] Additionally, between Róż Avenue, Chopina Street, and Ujazdów Avenue, is placed the Swiss Valley Park.[177]

There are also located six main urban squares, which are: Constitution Square,[178] Crossroads Square,[179] Saviour Square,[180] Three Crosses Square,[181] Union of Lublin Square,[182] and Polytechnic Square.[183]

Culture

The National Museum in Warsaw in 2016.

In the South Downtown, is located the National Museum in Warsaw, the largest museum in the city, and one of the largest in the country.[12] The neighbourhood also includes the Mausoleum of Struggle and Martyrdom,[13] Museum of the Earth of the Polish Academy of Sciences,[14] Museum of Life in the Polish People's Republic,[184] and Warsaw University of Technology Museum.[185] There also are two branches of the Warsaw Rising Museum. One of them is located in the building at 51 Jerusalem Avenue, which houses the Warsaw Fotoplastikon, a stereoscopic device based on the Kaiserpanorama system, operating there since 1905.[186][187] The other, is the Security Office Prison Cells, located in the basement of the Ministry of Justice building, at 11 Ujazdów Avenue. The museum is dedicated to the prison operated there by the Ministry of Public Security from 1945 to 1954.[188]

There are also several theatres, including the Contemporary Theatre, Roma Musical Theatre, Studio Buffo, and TR Warszawa.[189] At 28 Marszałkowska Street is also located the historic Kino Luna cinema which operates since 1962.[190][191]

There are also numerous monuments and memorials, such as the Memorial to the Polish Aviators Fallen Between 1939 and 1945,[192] the Monument to the Millennium of the Polish Cavalry,[193] and the Monument to the Polish Underground State and Home Army.[194] There is also the famous art installation Greetings from Jerusalem Avenue, placed at the Charles de Gaulle Roundabout.[195]

Higher education and science

The Main Building of the Warsaw University of Technology in 2018.

South Downtown includes the main campus of the Warsaw University of Technology. The Main Building is located at 1 Polytechnic Square, while most of the faculty buildings are placed in a section determined by Koszykowa, Noakowskiego, and Nowowiejska Streets, and Independence Avenue. Additionally, the Faculty of Architecture is located at 55 Koszykowa Street, and the Faculty of Chemistry at 3 Noakowskiego Street.[10][11]

In the neighbourhood, at 188B Independence Avenue, is also the National Information Processing Institute of the Ministry of Science and Higher Education.[196][197]

At 4 and 6 Chałubińskiego Street is also housed the Central Transport Library, a research and librarian institution of the Ministry of Infrastructure.[198]

Government buildings

The Seym and Senate Complex in 2015.

In the South Downtown, at 4, 6 and 8 Wiejska Street, is located the complex that houses the Seym and Senate of the Parliament of Poland.[18]

In the neighbourhood are also present the headquarters of other numerous government agencies. This includes:

South Downtown is also home to numerous embassies of foreign countries, including France, Canada, and the United States, among others.[20]

Public transit

Within the neighbourhood is present the Politechnika station of the M1 line of the Warsaw Metro underground rapit transit system. It is located at the crossing of Waryńskiego Street and People's Army Avenue.[21][22]

Religion

The St. Alexander Church in 2010.

In the South Downtown are located three Roman Catholic churches. They are the Church of the Holiest Saviour, the St. Alexander Church, and the Sts. Apostles Peter and Paul Church.[15][16][17] Among other notable religious buildings there also are the Chapel of Our Lady of Perpetual Help, and the St. Barbara Chappel.[17][211]

Additionally, at 31 Wilcza Street, is located the Chapel of the Divine Mercy of the Polish-Catholic Church of the Republic of Poland.[212]

Location and subdivisions

The South Downtown is located within the south-eastern portion of the district of Downtown, in the city of Warsaw, Poland, and it is a City Information System area. To the north, its borders are determined by Jerusalem Avenue; to the east, by Ujazdów Avenue, Piękna Street, Górnośląska Street, Szucha Avenue, and the peaks of the Warsaw Escarpment; to the south, by Batorego Street, Boya-Żeleńskiego Street, and around the Union of Lublin Square; and to the west, by Independence Avenue, and Chałubińskiego Street.[1]

It borders Mirów to the north-west, North Downtown to the north, Powiśle to the north-east, Solec to the east, Ujazdów to the south-east, Old Mokotów to the south, and Filtry to the west. Its southern and western boundaries form the border of the district of Downtown, bordering districts of Mokotów to the south, and Wola and Ochota to the west.[1]

The Downtown district is also subdivided into nine administrative neighbourhoods, each governed by a neighbourhood council. The area of the South Downtown includes Koszyki, Krucza, Oleandrów, and Powiśle-Solec.[213][214]

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