In textile production, carding is a mechanical process that disentangles, cleans and intermixes fibres to produce a continuous web or sliver suitable for subsequent processing.[1] This is achieved by passing the fibres between differentially moving surfaces covered with "card clothing", a firm flexible material embedded with metal pins. It breaks up locks and unorganised clumps of fibre and then aligns the individual fibres to be parallel with each other. In preparing wool fibre for spinning, carding is the step that comes after teasing.[2]
The word is derived from the Latin carduus meaning thistle or teasel,[3] as dried vegetable teasels were first used to comb the raw wool before technological advances led to the use of machines.
Overview
The ordered fibres can then be passed on after carding to other processes that are specific to the desired end use of the fibre: cotton, batting, felt, woollen or worsted yarn, etc. Carding can also be used to create blends of different fibres or different colours. When blending, the carding process combines the different fibres into a homogeneous mix. Commercial cards also have rollers and systems designed to remove some vegetable matter contaminants from the wool.[citation needed]
Common to all carders is card clothing. Card clothing is made from a sturdy flexible backing in which closely spaced wire pins are embedded. The shape, length, diameter, and spacing of these wire pins are dictated by the card designer and the particular requirements of the application where the card cloth will be used. A later version of the card clothing product developed during the latter half of the 19th century and was found only on commercial carding machines, whereby a single piece of serrated wire was wrapped around a roller, became known as metallic card clothing.[citation needed]
Carding machines are known as cards. Fibre may be carded by hand for hand spinning.
History
Science historian Joseph Needham ascribes the invention of bow-instruments used in textile technology to India.[4] The earliest evidence for using bow-instruments for carding comes from India (2nd century CE).[4] These carding devices, called kaman (bow) and dhunaki, would loosen the texture of the fibre by the means of a vibrating string.[4]
At the turn of the eighteenth century, wool in England was being carded using pairs of hand cards, in a two-stage process: 'working' with the cards opposed and 'stripping' where they are in parallel.[5]
In 1748 Lewis Paul of Birmingham, England, invented two hand driven carding machines. The first used a coat of wires on a flat table moved by foot pedals. This failed. On the second, a coat of wire slips was placed around a card which was then wrapped around a cylinder.[5] Daniel Bourn obtained a similar patent in the same year, and probably used it in his spinning mill at Leominster, but this burnt down in 1754.[6] The invention was later developed and improved by Richard Arkwright and Samuel Crompton. Arkwright's second patent (of 1775) for his carding machine was subsequently declared invalid (1785) because it lacked originality.[7]
From the 1780s, the carding machines were set up in mills in the north of England and mid-Wales. Priority was given to cotton but woollen fibres were being carded in Yorkshire in 1780. With woollen, two carding machines were used: the first or the scribbler opened and mixed the fibres, the second or the condenser mixed and formed the web.[8] The first in Wales was in a factory at Dolobran near Meifod in 1789. These carding mills produced yarn particularly for the Welsh flannel industry.[9]
In 1834 James Walton invented the first practical machines to use a wire card. He patented this machine and also a new form of card with layers of cloth and rubber. The combination of these two inventions became the standard for the carding industry, using machines first built by Parr, Curtis and Walton in Ancoats, and from 1857 by James Walton & Sons at Haughton Dale.[10]
By 1838, the Spen Valley, centred on Cleckheaton, had at least 11 card clothing factories and by 1893, it was generally accepted as the card cloth capital of the world, though by 2008 only two manufacturers of metallic and flexible card clothing remained in England: Garnett Wire Ltd., dating from 1851, and Joseph Sellers & Son Ltd., established in 1840.[citation needed]
Baird from Scotland took carding to Leicester, Massachusetts, in the 1780s. In the 1890s, the town produced one-third of all hand and machine cards in North America.[citation needed] John and Arthur Slater, from Saddleworth went over to work with Slater in 1793.[8]
A 1780s scribbling mill would be driven by a water wheel. There were 170 scribbling mills around Leeds at that time. Each scribbler would require 15–45 horsepower (11–34 kW) to operate. Modern machines are driven by belting from an electric motor or an overhead shaft via two pulleys.[8]
Cotton manufacturing processes
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| Bale breaker | Blowing room | |||||
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| Willowing |  | |||||
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| Breaker scutcher | Batting | |||||
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| Finishing scutcher | Lapping | Teasing | ||||
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| Carding | Carding room | |||||
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| Sliver lap | | |||||
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| Combing | | |||||
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| Drawing | ||||||
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| Slubbing | ||||||
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| Intermediate | ||||||
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| Roving | | Fine roving | ||||
| |  | ||||
| Mule spinning | Ring spinning | Spinning | ||||
| | | ||||
| |  | | | ||
| Reeling |  | Doubling | |||
| | | ||||
| Winding | Bundling | Bleaching | ||||
| |  | | |||
| Weaving shed |  | Winding | ||||
| | | ||||
| Beaming | | Cabling | ||||
| | | ||||
| Warping | | Gassing | ||||
| | | ||||
| Sizing/slashing/dressing | | Spooling | ||||
| | | ||||
| Weaving | | | ||||
|  | | ||||
| Cloth | Yarn (cheese) Bundle | Sewing thread | ||||
Carding: the fibres are separated and then assembled into a loose strand (sliver or tow) at the conclusion of this stage.
Tools
Predating mechanised weaving, hand loom weaving was a cottage industry that used the same processes but on a smaller scale. These skills have survived as an artisan craft or as an art form and hobby.[15]
Hand carders
Hand cards are typically square or rectangular paddles manufactured in a variety of sizes from 2 by 2 inches (5.1 cm × 5.1 cm) to 4 by 8 inches (10 cm × 20 cm). The working face of each paddle can be flat or cylindrically curved and wears the card cloth. Small cards, called flick cards, are used to flick the ends of a lock of fibre, or to tease out some strands for spinning off.[16]
A pair of cards is used to brush the wool between them until the fibres are more or less aligned in the same direction. The aligned fibre is then peeled from the card as a rolag. Carding is an activity normally done outside or over a drop cloth, depending on the wool's cleanliness. Rolag is peeled from the card.[citation needed]
This product (rovings, rolags, and batts) can be used for spinning.
Carding of wool can either be done "in the grease" or not, depending on the type of machine and on the spinner's preference. "In the grease" means that the lanolin that naturally comes with the wool has not been washed out, leaving the wool with a slightly greasy feel. The large drum carders do not tend to get along well with lanolin, so most commercial worsted and woollen mills wash the wool before carding. Hand carders (and small drum carders too, though the directions may not recommend it) can be used to card lanolin-rich wool.
Drum carders
The simplest machine carder is the drum carder. Most drum carders are hand-cranked but some are powered by an electric motor. These machines generally have two rollers, or drums, covered with card clothing. The licker-in, or smaller roller meters fibre from the infeed tray onto the larger storage drum. The two rollers are connected to each other by a belt- or chain-drive so that their relative speeds cause the storage drum to gently pull fibres from the licker-in. This pulling straightens the fibres and lays them between the wire pins of the storage drum's card cloth. Fibre is added until the storage drum's card cloth is full. A gap in the card cloth facilitates removal of the batt when the card cloth is full.
Some drum carders have a soft-bristled brush attachment that presses the fibre into the storage drum. This attachment serves to condense the fibres already in the card cloth and adds a small amount of additional straightening to the condensed fibre.[citation needed]
Cottage carders
Using a cottage carder to card white alpaca
Diagram showing name, location, and rotation of rollers used on a cottage carder
Cottage carding machines differ significantly from the simple drum card. These carders do not store fibre in the card cloth as the drum carder does; rather, fibre passes through the workings of the carder for storage or for additional processing by other machines.
A typical cottage carder has a single large drum (the swift) accompanied by a pair of in-feed rollers (nippers), one or more pairs of worker and stripper rollers, a fancy, and a doffer. In-feed to the carder is usually accomplished by hand or by conveyor belt and often the output of the cottage carder is stored as a batt or further processed into roving and wound into bumps with an accessory bump winder. The cottage carder in the image below supports both outputs.
Raw fibre, placed on the in-feed table or conveyor is moved to the nippers which restrain and meter the fiber onto the swift. As they are transferred to the swift, many of the fibres are straightened and laid into the swift's card cloth. These fibres will be carried past the worker or stripper rollers to the fancy.
As the swift carries the fibres forward, from the nippers, those fibres that are not yet straightened are picked up by a worker and carried over the top to its paired stripper. Relative to the surface speed of the swift, the worker turns quite slowly. This has the effect of reversing the fibre. The stripper, which turns at a higher speed than the worker, pulls fibres from the worker and passes them to the swift. The stripper's relative surface speed is slower than the swift's so the swift pulls the fibres from the stripper for additional straightening.
Straightened fibres are carried by the swift to the fancy. The fancy's card cloth is designed to engage with the swift's card cloth so that the fibres are lifted to the tips of the swift's card cloth and carried by the swift to the doffer. The fancy and the swift are the only rollers in the carding process that actually touch.
The slowly turning doffer removes the fibres from the swift and carries them to the fly comb where they are stripped from the doffer. A fine web of more or less parallel fibre, a few fibres thick and as wide as the carder's rollers, exits the carder at the fly comb by gravity or other mechanical means for storage or further processing.[citation needed]
See also
- Cotton mill
- Cotton-spinning machinery
- Doubling (textiles)
- DREF friction spinning
- Gig-mill
- Open end spinning
- Spinning
- Spinning wheel
- Textile manufacture during the Industrial Revolution
- Textile manufacturing
- Timeline of clothing and textiles technology
- Yarn realisation
- P. & C. Garnett Ltd, 19th-century innovators of metallic carding wire and garnetting.
References
Notes
- ↑ Yilmaz, Nasire Deniz; Powell (2005). "The Technology of Terry Towel production" (PDF). Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management. 4 (4). North Carolina Stare University.
- ↑ "Preparing Wool for Handspinning". La Hottée. 27 July 2007. Archived from the original on 2014-08-22. Retrieved 2014-09-16.
- ↑ Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). . Encyclopædia Britannica (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press.
- 1 2 3 Baber, Zaheer (1996). The Science of Empire: Scientific Knowledge, Civilisation, and Colonial Rule in India. the State University of New York Press. p. 57. ISBN 0-7914-2919-9.
- 1 2 Richards 1972, p. 73.
- ↑ Wadsworth, A. P.; Mann, J. de L. (1931). The Cotton Industry and Industrial Lancashire. Manchester University Press. pp. 419–448.
- ↑ Fitton, R. S.; Wadsworth, A. P. (1958). The Strutts and the Arkwrights 1758–1830: a Study in the Early Factory System. Manchester University Press. pp. 65–80.
- 1 2 3 Richards 1972, p. 74.
- ↑
Jenkins, J. Geraint (1969). The Welsh Woollen Industry. Cardiff. pp. 33–34.
{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link) - ↑ Williams, Richard (1894). Montgomeryshire worthies. Newtown: Phillips & Son. p. 308.
- ↑ Collier 1970, pp. 66, 67
- ↑ Collier 1970, p. 69
- ↑ Collier 1970, pp. 70
- ↑ Hills 1993, p. 4
- ↑ Campbell, Gordon (2006). The Grove Encyclopedia of Decorative Arts, Volume 1. Oxford University Press. ISBN 978-0-19-518948-3.
- ↑ Matherne, Patrick. "What is Carding". Archived from the original on 27 September 2013. Retrieved 8 May 2012.
Bibliography
- Collier, Ann M (1970), A Handbook of Textiles, Pergamon Press, p. 258, ISBN 0-08-018057-4
- Hills, Richard Leslie (1993), Power from Steam: A History of the Stationary Steam Engine, Cambridge University Press, p. 244, ISBN 978-0-521-45834-4
- Nasmith, Joseph (1896), The Students Cotton Spinning (Third ed.), Deansgate, Manchester: John Heywood Ltd, p. 637
- Richards, R.T.D. (1972), "The development of the modern woollen carding machine", in Jenkins, J. Geraint (ed.), The wool textile industry in Great Britain (1 ed.), London [u.a.]: Routledge & Kegan, ISBN 0710069790
External links
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