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Whitby grew significantly as a port as a result of the alum trade and by importing [[coal]] from the Durham coalfield to process it.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.fortunecity.com/greenfield/ecolodge/25/alum.htm |title=Alum Quarrying, The effect of extractive industry on the Yorkshire Coastal Landscape |publisher=East Yorkshire Coast – Geology and Geomorphology |accessdate=30 July 2011}}</ref> |
Whitby grew significantly as a port as a result of the alum trade and by importing [[coal]] from the Durham coalfield to process it.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.fortunecity.com/greenfield/ecolodge/25/alum.htm |title=Alum Quarrying, The effect of extractive industry on the Yorkshire Coastal Landscape |publisher=East Yorkshire Coast – Geology and Geomorphology |accessdate=30 July 2011}}</ref> |
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Whitby grew in size and wealth, extending its activities to include [[shipbuilding]] using local [[oak]] timber. In 1790–91 Whitby built 11,754&nbps;tons of shipping, making it the third largest shipbuilder in England, after London and Newcastle.<ref>{{cite book | title=A History of Whitby | publisher=Phillimore & co | author=White, Andrew | year=1993 | location=Chichester | page=69 | isbn=0-85033-842-5}}</ref> Taxes on imports entering the port raised money to improve and extend the town's twin piers, improving the harbour and permitting further increases in trade. In 1753 the first [[whaling]] ship set sail to [[Greenland]] initiating a new phase in the town's development, and by 1795 Whitby had become a major centre for the whaling industry. The most successful year was 1814 when eight ships caught 172 whales, with the [[whaler]], the ''Resolution'''s catch producing 230 tons of oil. The carcases yielded 42 tons of [[whale bone]] used for '[[Bone (corsetry)|stays]]' which were used in the corsetry trade until changes in fashion made them redundant. |
Whitby grew in size and wealth, extending its activities to include [[shipbuilding]] using local [[oak]] timber. In 1790–91 Whitby built 11,754&nbps;tons of shipping, making it the third largest shipbuilder in England, after London and Newcastle.<ref>{{cite book | title=A History of Whitby | publisher=Phillimore & co | author=White, Andrew | year=1993 | location=Chichester | page=69 | isbn=0-85033-842-5}}</ref> Taxes on imports entering the port raised money to improve and extend the town's twin piers, improving the harbour and permitting further increases in trade. In 1753 the first [[whaling]] ship set sail to [[Greenland]] initiating a new phase in the town's development, and by 1795 Whitby had become a major centre for the whaling industry. The most successful year was 1814 when eight ships caught 172 whales, with the [[whaler]], the ''Resolution'''s catch producing 230 tons of oil. The carcases yielded 42 tons of [[whale bone]] used for '[[Bone (corsetry)|stays]]' which were used in the corsetry trade until changes in fashion made them redundant.<ref>{{cite book|last=Young|first=George |title=A picture of Whitby and its environs|url=http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=Q4BHAAAAIAAJ&pg=PA199&dq=whitby++1814&hl=en&ei=CZUkTrP0OM-BhQf_6sW1DA&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=8&ved=0CFEQ6AEwBw#v=onepage&q=whitby%20%201814&f=false|year=1824|publisher=R. Rogers|location=Whitby|page=199}}</ref> [[Blubber]] was boiled in four harbourside oil houses and sold for oil lamps. Whale oil was used for street lighting until the spread of gas lighting reduced demand and the Whitby Whale Oil and Gas Company became the Whitby Coal and Gas Company. The market for whale products steadily declined, catches became too small to be economic, and the fleet suffered a series of shipwrecks. By 1831 only one ship, the ''Phoenix,'' was engaged in whaling.<ref>{{cite web |url= http://www.whitbysights.co.uk/whitby-history/whitbywhalers.html |title=Whitby Whalers |publisher= Whitby Sights |accessdate=22 July 2011}}</ref> |
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Whitby benefited from trade between the Newcastle coalfield and London, both by shipbuilding and supplying transport. In his youth the explorer [[James Cook]] worked on Whitby [[Collier (ship type)|colliers]], shipping coal from the [[River Tyne|Tyne]] and [[River Wear|Wear]].<ref>{{cite web |url= http://www.englandsnortheast.co.uk/CoalMiningandRailways.html |title=Coal Mining in North East England |first= David |last= Simpson |work=England's North East |year = 2009 |accessdate=20 July 2011}}</ref> [[HMS Endeavour|HMS ''Endeavour'']], the ship commanded by Cook on his voyage to Australia and New Zealand, was built in Whitby in 1764 by Tomas Fishburn as a coal carrier named ''Earl of Pembroke''. She was bought by the Royal Navy 1768, refitted and renamed.<ref>{{cite encyclopedia |year=1966 |title=Ships, Famous |encyclopedia=An Encyclopedia of New Zealand |editor=A.H. McLintock |publisher=Ministry for Culture and Heritage/Te Manatū Taonga, Government of New Zealand |url=http://www.teara.govt.nz/1966/S/ShipsFamous/Endeavour/en |accessdate=5 May 2009}}</ref> |
Whitby benefited from trade between the Newcastle coalfield and London, both by shipbuilding and supplying transport. In his youth the explorer [[James Cook]] worked on Whitby [[Collier (ship type)|colliers]], shipping coal from the [[River Tyne|Tyne]] and [[River Wear|Wear]].<ref>{{cite web |url= http://www.englandsnortheast.co.uk/CoalMiningandRailways.html |title=Coal Mining in North East England |first= David |last= Simpson |work=England's North East |year = 2009 |accessdate=20 July 2011}}</ref> [[HMS Endeavour|HMS ''Endeavour'']], the ship commanded by Cook on his voyage to Australia and New Zealand, was built in Whitby in 1764 by Tomas Fishburn as a coal carrier named ''Earl of Pembroke''. She was bought by the Royal Navy 1768, refitted and renamed.<ref>{{cite encyclopedia |year=1966 |title=Ships, Famous |encyclopedia=An Encyclopedia of New Zealand |editor=A.H. McLintock |publisher=Ministry for Culture and Heritage/Te Manatū Taonga, Government of New Zealand |url=http://www.teara.govt.nz/1966/S/ShipsFamous/Endeavour/en |accessdate=5 May 2009}}</ref> |
Revision as of 22:43, 7 October 2011
Whitby is a town, port and civil parish in the Scarborough borough of North Yorkshire, England. It is situated on the east coast of Yorkshire at the mouth of the River Esk, surrounded by the North York Moors national park and the heritage coastline.
Known as Streonshal in AD 656, it was named Whitby since the 11th century. In the following centuries Whitby functioned as a fishing settlement until, in the 18th century, it developed as a port and centre for shipbuilding and whaling, trade in locally mined alum and the manufacture of Whitby jet jewellery. The cliffs around Whitby hold ammonite fossils, and three green ammonites are featured on the coat of arms of Whitby Town Council.
Whitby's cultural and historical heritage contribute to the local economy. The town suffers from the economic constraints of the remote geographical location, poor transport infrastructure, and limitations on available land and property, so tourism and fishing remain the mainstay of the town's economy. It is the closest port to a proposed wind farm development in the North Sea and is 47 miles (76 km) from the county town of York and 22 miles (35 km) from Middlesbrough and there are local transport links to the rest of North Yorkshire and North East England. According to the 2001 UK census, Whitby parish had a population of 13,594.
History
The earliest recorded Old English name for the settlement was Streonshal in AD 656. Streanæshalc, Streneshalc, Streoneshalch, Streoneshalh, Streunes-Alae in Lindissi were recorded spellings between the 6th and 8th centuries. Prestebi, meaning the habitation of priests in Old Norse, is a 9th century name. After the Norman Conquest it was recorded as Hwitebi and Witebi, meaning the white settlement in Old Norse in the 12th century, Whitebi in the 13th century and Qwiteby in the 14th century.[2]

A monastery at Whitby was founded in AD 657 by King Oswiu or Oswy of Northumbria, as an act of thanksgiving, after he had defeated Penda, the pagan king of Mercia. At its foundation, the abbey was an Anglo-Saxon 'double monastery' for men and women. Its first abbess, the royal princess Hild, was later venerated as a saint.[3] The abbey became a centre of learning and it was here that Caedmon the cowherd was "miraculously" transformed into the inspired poet whose poetry is an example of Anglo-Saxon literature. The abbey became the leading royal nunnery of the kingdom of Deira, and the burial-place of its royal family. The Synod of Whitby in 664, established the Roman date of Easter in Northumbria at the expense of the Celtic one.[4]
The monastery was destroyed between 867 and 870 in a series of raids by Vikings from Denmark under their leaders Ingwar and Ubba. Its site remained desolate for more than 200 years until after the Norman Conquest of 1066.[2] Then, in 1078, on land donated by William de Percy, the monastery was re-founded as a Benedictine house dedicated to St Peter and St Hilda.[5] William de Percy's gift not only included land for the monastery, but the town and port of Whitby with its parish church of St. Mary and six dependent chapels at Fyling, Hawsker, Sneaton, Ugglebarnby, Dunsley, and Aislaby, five mills including Ruswarp, the town of Hackness with two mills and its two churches.[6] In about 1128 Henry I granted the abbey burgage in Whitby and permission to hold a fair at the feast of St. Hilda on 25 August. A second fair was held close to St. Hilda's winter feast at Martinmas. Market rights were granted to the abbey and descended with the liberty. Whitby Abbey surrendered in December 1539 when Henry VIII dissolved the monasteries.
In 1540 the town had between 20 and 30 houses and a population of about 200.[7] The burgesses had little independence under the abbey and after the dissolution they attempted to obtain self-government. The king ordered Letters Patent to be drawn up granting these requests, but it was not fulfilled. In 1550 the Liberty of Whitby Strand, except Hackness, was granted to the Earl of Warwick who in 1551 conveyed it to his supporter, Sir John York and his wife Anne. They sold it to the Cholmleys who held the site by lease.[8] In the reign of Elizabeth I, Whitby was a small fishing port. In 1635 the owners of the liberty governed the port and town where 24 burgesses had the privilege of buying and selling goods brought in by sea. Burgage tenure continued until 1837, when by an Act of Parliament, government of the town was entrusted to a board of Improvement Commissioners, elected by the ratepayers.[2]
At the end of the 16th century Thomas Chaloner visited alum works in the Papal States[9] where he observed that the rock being processed was similar to that under his Guisborough estate. At that time alum was important for medicinal uses, in curing leather and for fixing dyed cloths and the Papal States and Spain maintained monopolies on its production and sale. Chaloner secretly brought workmen to develop the industry in Yorkshire, and alum was produced near Sandsend Ness 3 miles (5 km) from Whitby in the reign of James I.[10] Once the industry was established, imports were banned and although the methods in its production were laborious, England became self-sufficient.[11][12] Whitby grew significantly as a port as a result of the alum trade and by importing coal from the Durham coalfield to process it.[13]
Whitby grew in size and wealth, extending its activities to include shipbuilding using local oak timber. In 1790–91 Whitby built 11,754&nbps;tons of shipping, making it the third largest shipbuilder in England, after London and Newcastle.[14] Taxes on imports entering the port raised money to improve and extend the town's twin piers, improving the harbour and permitting further increases in trade. In 1753 the first whaling ship set sail to Greenland initiating a new phase in the town's development, and by 1795 Whitby had become a major centre for the whaling industry. The most successful year was 1814 when eight ships caught 172 whales, with the whaler, the Resolution's catch producing 230 tons of oil. The carcases yielded 42 tons of whale bone used for 'stays' which were used in the corsetry trade until changes in fashion made them redundant.[15] Blubber was boiled in four harbourside oil houses and sold for oil lamps. Whale oil was used for street lighting until the spread of gas lighting reduced demand and the Whitby Whale Oil and Gas Company became the Whitby Coal and Gas Company. The market for whale products steadily declined, catches became too small to be economic, and the fleet suffered a series of shipwrecks. By 1831 only one ship, the Phoenix, was engaged in whaling.[16]
Whitby benefited from trade between the Newcastle coalfield and London, both by shipbuilding and supplying transport. In his youth the explorer James Cook worked on Whitby colliers, shipping coal from the Tyne and Wear.[17] HMS Endeavour, the ship commanded by Cook on his voyage to Australia and New Zealand, was built in Whitby in 1764 by Tomas Fishburn as a coal carrier named Earl of Pembroke. She was bought by the Royal Navy 1768, refitted and renamed.[18]

Whitby developed as a spa town in Georgian times when three chalybeate springs were in demand for their medicinal and tonic qualities. Visitors were attracted to the town leading to the building of "lodging-houses" and hotels particularly on the West Cliff.[2] Then, in 1839, the Whitby and Pickering Railway connecting Whitby to Pickering and eventually to York was built, and played a part in the town's development as a tourism destination. George Hudson, who promoted the link to York, was responsible for the development of the Royal Crescent which was partly completed.[19] For 12 years from 1847, Robert Stephenson, son of George Stephenson, engineer to the Whitby and Pickering Railway, was the Conservative MP for the town. Hudson promoted Robert as a fellow protectionist.[20]
The black mineraloid jet, the fossilised remains of the monkey-puzzle tree, is found locally the cliffs and on the moors. Jet has been used since the Bronze Age to make beads and the Romans are known to have mined it in the area.[21][22] Jet was brought to Whitby by pack pony to be made into a wide range of decorative items. It was at the peak of its popularity in the mid-19th century when it was favoured for mourning jewellery by Queen Victoria after the death of Prince Albert.[23]
The advent of iron ships in the late 19th century and port development on the River Tees led to the decline of small harbours such as Whitby. The last wooden ship to be built was the Monks-haven, launched in 1871, and the following year the harbour was silted up with gravel.[24][25]
On 30 October 1914, the hospital ship Rohilla was sunk, hitting the rocks within sight of shore just off Whitby at Saltwick Bay. Of the 229 people on board, 85 lost their lives in the disaster; most of them are buried in the churchyard at Whitby.[26] In a raid on Scarborough, Hartlepool and Whitby in December 1914, the town was shelled by the German battlecruisers Von der Tann and Derfflinger. In the final assault on the Yorkshire coast the ships aimed their guns at the signal post on the end of the headland. Whitby Abbey sustained considerable damage in the attack which lasted ten minutes. The German squadron responsible for the strike escaped without capture despite attempts made by the Royal Navy.[27]
During the first half of the 20th century the work of the port was mainly confined to its fishing fleet, however a few cargo boats used the port up to the start of World War II. During a dock strike at Hull in 1955, six ships successfully unloaded their 2,500&nbps;tons of potatoes on Whitby fish quay in June and the revival of the old port began. In 1964 the local council opened Endeavour Wharf, near the railway station, and five years later a private wharf on the opposite side of the harbour received its first cargo boat since 1939. The number of vessels using the port increased from 64 in 1964 to 291 eight years later. Major imports are timber, paper and chemicals, while exports have included steel, furnace-bricks, doors, and caravans.[28] The port is owned and managed by Scarborough Borough Council since the Harbour Commissioners relinquished responsibility in 1905.
A marina was started in 1979 by dredging the upper harbour and laying 275 yards (251.5 m) of floating pontoon with 133 yards (122 m) of drying pontoon. The adjacent 5.9 acres (2.4 ha) of reclaimed land is used for car parking and marine-orientated industries. The Church Street Pontoon was completed in 1991 and the Party Pontoon in 1995.[29] The Whitby Marina Facilities Centre was opened in June 2010.[30]
Governance
By an Act of 1837 government of the town was entrusted to a board of Improvement Commissioners, elected by the ratepayers. A Local Board was formed in 1872, and lasted until an Urban District Council was formed under the Local Government Act 1894.[31] The townships of Whitby, Ruswarp and Hawsker-cum-Stainsacre were formed into a Parliamentary borough under the Reform Act of 1832 returning one member until the Redistribution of Seats Act 1885.[2]
Since 1974 Whitby has been within the area governed by Scarborough Borough Council, which is one of the seven district councils in North Yorkshire.[32] For borough council purposes the town comprises three wards, Mayfield, Streonshalh and Whitby West Cliff. The borough council is a non-metropolitan district, responsible for housing, planning, leisure and recreation, waste collection, environmental health and revenue collection.[33] North Yorkshire County Council is a non-metropolitan county providing education, transport, highways, fire, waste disposal, social and library services.[34] At the lowest level of governance Whitby has a town council which, for election and administrative purposes, is divided into six electoral wards represented by 19 councillors responsible for burial grounds, allotments, play areas and street lighting. Elections to the town council are held every four years.[35]
In the UK parliament the town is represented by a Conservative, Robert Goodwill, who was elected member for the Scarborough and Whitby constituency in 2010.[36] Whitby lies within the Yorkshire and the Humber constituency of the European Parliament, which in the June 2009 European Election elected two Conservative, one Labour, one UKIP, one Liberal Democrat and one British National Party MEPs,[37] although one of the elected Conservative MEPs transferred to the Liberal Democrats in March 2010.[38]
Geography and geology
Whitby is situated on the east coast of Yorkshire facing the North Sea in a deep valley at the mouth of the River Esk. It has been a bridging point since at least medieval times and several bridges have spanned the river. The current bridge, built in 1908, is a swing bridge with a 75-foot (23 m) span that separates the upper and lower harbours which have a total area of around 80.1 acres (32.40 ha). The houses are built of brick or stone, often with red pantiled roofs, in narrow, steep streets, on both sides of the river.[39]
The town is surrounded on its landward sides by the moorland of the North York Moors National Park and the North Sea abuts it on the seaward side. The coastal areas are designated part of the North Yorkshire and Cleveland Heritage Coast.[40] This stretch of coast, known as the 'Dinosaur Coast', the 'Fossil Coast' or the 'Jurassic Coast', is around 35 miles (56 km) long, stretching from Staithes in the north, to Flamborough in the East Riding of Yorkshire. At Whitby dinosaur footprints are visible on the beach.[41] The rock strata contain fossils and organic remains including jet. Fossils include the petrified bones of an almost complete crocodile and a specimen of plesiosaurus measuring 15 feet 6 inches (4.72 m) in length, and 8 feet 5 inches (2.57 m) in breadth was discovered in 1841. Smaller fossils include ammonite, or "snake stones" from the alum shales and at Whitby Scar and nautilites in the lower beds of the lias strata. The Hildoceras genus of ammonite is named in honour of St. Hilda of Whitby.[39][42] The Rotunda Museum in Scarborough has a comprehensive collection of fossils from the area.
The harbour and the mouth of the River Esk are on a geological fault. On the east side the cliff is tall, 187 feet (57 m), and consists of alternating layers of shale, sandstone and clay.[43] On the west side the cliff is much lower and has a deep capping of boulder clay over a sandstone base making it less stable and liable to slippage. Both cliffs are being eroded quite rapidly.[44]
The area generally has warm summers and relatively mild winters. Weather conditions vary from day to day as well as from season to season. Its latitude means that it is influenced by predominantly westerly winds with depressions and their associated fronts, bringing unsettled and windy weather particularly in winter. Between depressions there are often small mobile anticyclones that bring periods of fine weather. In winter anticyclones bring cold dry weather. In summer the anticyclones tend to bring dry settled conditions which can lead to drought. The two dominant influences on the climate of the Whitby area are shelter against the worst of the moist westerly winds provided by the North York Moors and the proximity of the North Sea. Late, chilly springs and warm summers are a feature of the area but there are often spells of fine autumn weather. Onshore winds in spring and early summer bring mists or low stratus clouds (known locally as sea frets) to the coast and moors.[45]
Climate data for the North York Moors | |||||||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Month | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | Year |
Record high °C (°F) | 15 (59) |
17 (63) |
21 (70) |
25 (77) |
29 (84) |
32 (90) |
34 (93) |
33 (91) |
28 (82) |
26 (79) |
19 (66) |
16 (61) |
34 (93) |
Mean daily maximum °C (°F) | 3 (37) |
4 (39) |
8 (46) |
10 (50) |
15 (59) |
18 (64) |
21 (70) |
20 (68) |
17 (63) |
13 (55) |
8 (46) |
4 (39) |
12 (53) |
Mean daily minimum °C (°F) | −2 (28) |
−1 (30) |
0 (32) |
2 (36) |
4 (39) |
8 (46) |
10 (50) |
10 (50) |
8 (46) |
5 (41) |
1.5 (34.7) |
0 (32) |
3.8 (38.7) |
Record low °C (°F) | −16 (3) |
−14 (7) |
−10 (14) |
−7 (19) |
−5 (23) |
−1 (30) |
4 (39) |
5 (41) |
−1 (30) |
−8 (18) |
−11 (12) |
−13 (9) |
−16 (3) |
Average precipitation mm (inches) | 73 (2.9) |
54 (2.1) |
71 (2.8) |
39 (1.5) |
43 (1.7) |
56 (2.2) |
54 (2.1) |
58 (2.3) |
47 (1.9) |
63 (2.5) |
98 (3.9) |
82 (3.2) |
738 (29.1) |
Average snowy days | 13 | 16 | 10 | 7 | 1.4 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 1 | 5 | 9 | 62.4 |
Mean monthly sunshine hours | 55 | 72 | 105 | 132 | 182 | 170 | 185 | 170 | 130 | 115 | 68 | 42 | 1,426 |
Source: [46] |
Demography
According to the 2001 UK census, Whitby parish had a population of 13,594 living in 5,973 households.[1] Of the total number of homes 2,034 were rented and 3,939 were owner occupied.[47] Of the 5,506 economically active persons aged between 16 and 74, 420 were unemployed.[48] The number of people working in the service industry was 4,113.[48] Approximately 2,500 people were aged under 16, 8,400 were aged 16–64, and 2,700 aged 65 and over.[49] The mean age of the population was 41.78 years.[49] The number of people who travel to work by motorised transport is 3,134[48] but 2,190 households have no cars or vans.[50]
Population change
Population growth in Whitby from 1801 to 1961 | |||||||||||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Year | 1801 | 1811 | 1821 | 1831 | 1841 | 1851 | 1861 | 1871 | 1881 | 1891 | 1901 | 1911 | 1921 | 1931 | 1941[a] | 1951 | 1961 |
Population | 10,974 | 10,275 | 12,584 | 11,725 | 11,682 | 12,875 | – | 7,886 | 8,820 | 7,501 | 6,349 | 5,879 | 5,811 | 11,451 | – | 11,674 | 11,675 |
Whitby CP/AP [51] |
Religion

In the three wards that make up the Whitby district of North Yorkshire, out of a population of 13,596 there are 10,286 who stated that their religion was Christian in the 2001 UK census. There were 19 Muslims, 17 Buddhists, 12 Jews, 3 Sikhs and 499 people had no religious affiliations.[52][53][54]
St Mary's church is an ancient foundation, St Ninian's opened in Baxtergate in 1778 and St John's, also on Baxtergate, was consecrated in 1850. St Michaels was opened in 1856 and St Hilda's on the West Cliff was built in 1885. The Roman Catholic church dedicated to St Hilda was built in 1867 on Baxtergate.[2] There are places of worship for nonconformists including a United Reform Church; two Methodist chapels are no longer used.[55] The Whitby Mission to Seafarers maintains a Christian ministry to seafarers and their families by the provision of a reading room, chapel and recreational facilities.[56]
The Bishop of Whitby is a suffragan bishop of the Church of England Diocese of York, in the Province of York, England.[57] The town lies within the Central Vicariate of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Middlesbrough.[58]
Economy
Despite a strong cultural and historical heritage contributing to its economy, the town suffers from its relatively remote geographical location, poor transport infrastructure, and limitations on available land and property which constrain economic development.[59] Historically, the economy has been ruled by the development and changing fortunes of fishing, agriculture, tourism and manufacturing. These sectors are undergoing structural changes that have led to concentrations of deprivation, worklessness and benefit dependence. A narrowing employment base and an increasing dependence on the low wage and low skill sectors has resulted in significant losses of younger age groups. Business start-ups and the number of small and medium sized enterprises are low. Conversely, in-migration has been characterised by older, often, but not exclusively, lower income groups, who make increasing demands on the area's health and social care capacity. These demographic changes, together with the relative remoteness of Whitby from the region's main growth areas and the decline in traditional employment sectors, pose a significant economic challenge.[60]
Tourism is the mainstay of Whitby's economy. The town has a variety of self catering accommodation, holiday cottages, caravans and campsites, and guest houses, inns, bed & breakfast establishments and hotels. The jet industry declined at the end of the nineteenth century but eight shops sell jet jewellery, mainly as souvenirs to tourists.[61] In 1996, Whitby West Cliff qualified for a 'Tidy Britain Group Seaside Award'. The town was awarded "Best Seaside Resort 2006", by Which? Holiday magazine.[62]
Whitby Harbour is used for commercial, fishing and pleasure craft. The harbour has a total area of about 80 acres (32 ha). Inshore fishing, particularly for crustaceans and line fish, takes place along the coast. Lobsters, brown and velvet crabs are an important part of the local fishery. From May to August, salmon is found in the Esk and small open boats are licensed to net these off the harbour entrance. There are around 40 licensed angling party boats. The commercial catch consists mainly of cod, plaice, whiting, haddock, lemon sole, dogfish and skate, generally caught within 12 miles (19 km) of the coast.[63] There is a fish market on the quayside which operates as need arises.[64] The ready supply of fresh fish has resulted in an abundance of "chippies" in the town, including the Magpie Cafe which Rick Stein has described as the best fish and chip shop in Britain.[65]
The Whitby Marina project, jointly funded by Scarborough Borough Council, Yorkshire Forward and the European Regional Development Fund is an attempt to develop and diversify the local economy.[66] The one remaining shipbuilding firm, Parkol Marine, is a family run business on the east side of the river.[67] Founded in 1988, this boatyard has two berths for new build and a dry dock for repairs.[68] St Hilda's Business Centre provides office space for a wide range of businesses. Whitby Business Park is a 49 acres (20 ha) site located by the A171 road, 2 miles (3.2 km) from the harbour on the southern outskirts of the town. Companies on the park include Supreme Plastics, Whitby Seafoods and Botham's of Whitby alongside major retailers, Homebase and Sainsbury's.[69]
The east coast has limited conventional energy generation capacity and related infrastructure, but Whitby, the closest port to a proposed development on Dogger Bank is ideally placed to support the off shore wind industry with support vessel operations and logistics.[70][71] The Dogger Bank wind farm, which is expected to include up to 2,600 giant 400-foot (120 m) turbines, will cover more than 3,300 square miles (850,000 ha).[72]
Transport

Whitby is situated on the A171 road from Scarborough to Guisborough which originally passed over the swing bridge. A high level bridge over the Esk Valley was built in 1980 to avoid the bridge and ease congestion in the town centre. The A174 accesses coastal towns to the north and the A169 crosses the moors to Pickering. Whitby is served by the Yorkshire Coastliner bus line, operating from Leeds, Tadcaster, York, Scarborough, Bridlington, Pickering and Malton with connections beyond Yorkshire.[73] Arriva runs services connecting Whitby to Scarborough and Middlesbrough. The nearest airport, about 45-mile (72 km) miles from Whitby, is Durham Tees Valley Airport, which has a regular service from Amsterdam, Schipol airport.[74]
The Port of Whitby is strategically placed for shipping to Europe, especially Scandinavia, and is capable of handling cargoes of grain, steel products, timber and potash. Vessels of up to 3,000 tonnes deadweight tonnage are received at the wharf, which has the capability of loading/unloading two ships simultaneously.[75] As of 2004 54,000 square feet (5,000 m2) of dock space is allocated for storage of all-weather cargo and a further 17,000 square feet (1,600 m2) of warehouse space is reserved for weather-critical goods storage.[76]
The town is served by Whitby railway station which is the terminus of the Esk Valley Line from Middlesbrough operated by Northern Rail. It was formerly the northern terminus of the Whitby, Pickering and York line, and in 2007 the North Yorkshire Moors Railway began a summer service between Pickering and Whitby operated by steam locomotives. The Scarborough and Whitby Railway following a scenic route along the coast was built in 1885 requiring construction of the red brick Larpool Viaduct to cross the Esk Valley into Whitby.[77] The line closed as a result of the Beeching axe in 1965 and the trackbed is used as a footpath, bridleway and by cyclists.[78] The Whitby, Redcar and Middlesbrough Union Railway, had a station at Whitby West Cliff and ran close to the cliffs to the north of the town. It opened in 1883 and closed in 1958.[79]
The coastal section of the 110-mile (180 km) Cleveland Way National Trail passes through Whitby.[80]
Public services

A wide range of health care services is provided by the Whitby Community Hospital, run by the Scarborough and North East Yorkshire Health Care NHS Trust.[81] There are five general practitioners and five dentists in the Whitby area.[82][83] Yorkshire Ambulance Service provides hospital transport throughout Yorkshire.[84]
Whitby fire station, run by North Yorkshire Fire and Rescue Service, is crewed between 8 am and 6 pm.[85] There are two police stations in the town and police services are provided by the North Yorkshire Police Authority.[86] The lifeboat station, on the east bank, which from 2007 is housed in a new building, is operated by the Royal National Lifeboat Institution. The crew members are unpaid volunteers and the station has two lifeboats, the inshore D-class lifeboat OEM Stone III and the all-weather Trent class George and Mary Webb.[87]
North Yorkshire County Council Waste Management services provides a Household Waste Recycling Centre at Whitby Industrial estate and within the Scarborough Borough area, the Council operates an alternate weekly collection of household waste, whereby the type of waste collected alternates between recyclables and landfill waste.[88][89] Whitby's water supply comes predominantly from the River Esk, is treated at the Ruswarp Water Treatment Works and distributed from there by Yorkshire Water who also deal with the town's sewerage.[90] CE Electric UK is the company responsible for delivering electricity to the town and Northern Gas Networks supply piped gas.[91][92]
Education
Whitby schools have a three tier system, primary, middle (11–14) and Whitby Community College (11–19), which gained specialist school status in September 2002, specialising in Technology. The College, Caedmon and Eskdale Schools (11–14) formed a confederation in 2004 and collaborate closely and support the feeder primary schools, Springhead Special School, Thornaby Community School and the Adult Learning Service.[93][94][95] The primary schools are St Hilda's Roman Catholic Primary School, Stakesby Community Primary School, West Cliff Primary School, Airy Hill Community Primary School and East Whitby Community Primary School. North Yorkshire County Council provides education services.[96]
The Whitby and District Fishing Industry Training School offers training for new entrants to the fishing industry and experienced fishermen.[97]
Landmarks

The swing bridge spanning the Esk divides the upper and lower harbours and joins the east and west sides of the town. Whitby developed as an important bridging point of the River Esk and in 1351 permission was granted for tolls to be taken on Whitby Bridge for its maintenance. In 1609 a survey for a new bridge was commissioned while in 1628 it was described as a drawbridge where men raised planks to let vessels pass and tolls were collected. The bridge posts were rebuilt in stone at a cost of £3,000 in 1766. This structure was replaced by a four-arched bridge between 1833 and 1835, one arch made of cast iron swivelled to allow vessels to pass.[2][39] This bridge was replaced between 1908 and 1909 by an electric swing bridge.[98]
The bridges allowed the town to spread onto the west bank, whilst the east bank, the Haggerlythe, is dominated by St Mary's Church and the ruins of Whitby Abbey which is owned by English Heritage. St Mary's Church, a grade I listed building on the site of a Saxon church. The church's ancient foundation dates from the 12th century. Over time it has been extensively altered and enlarged but retains its several features including box pews. The East Cliff is quite a distance by road from the church, the alternative is to climb the 199 steps of the "Church Stairs"[99] or use the footpath called "Caedmon's Trod".[100] The stone steps are around 200 years old and were renovated between 2005 and 2006. There are landings on the stairs to assist coffin bearers on their journey to the graveyard.[101] The Church Stairs were originally made from wood, the earliest reference to their construction dates to around 1400.
The harbour is sheltered by the grade II listed east and west piers each with a lighthouse and beacon with fixed lights. The west lighthouse, of 1835, is the taller at 84 feet (25.5 m) and the east lighthouse, built in 1855, is 54 feet (16.5 m) high. A foghorn on the the west pier extension sounds a blast every 30 seconds during fog.[102]
On the West Cliff is a statue of Captain James Cook who served his apprenticeship in the town, and a whalebone arch, commemorating the whaling industry. It is the second such arch, the original is preserved in Whitby Archives Heritage Centre. By the inner harbour is a statue commemorating William Scoresby, designer of the crow's nest.[103]
On the outskirts of town to the west is the 19th-century Sneaton Castle built by James Wilson who sold a sugar plantation where he had over 200 slaves and moved to Whitby.[104] Alongside it is St Hilda's Priory,[105] the mother house of the Order of the Holy Paraclete. The castle was used as a school and is now a conference centre and hotel in association with the priory.
Culture, media and sport

Photographer, Frank Meadow Sutcliffe left a record of the town, harbour, fishing and residents in late-Victorian times. His most famous photograph entitled "Water Rats" was taken in 1886. He became famous internationally as a great exponent of pictorial photography, winning over 60 gold, silver and bronze medals from exhibitions in Tokyo, Vienna, France, the U.S.A. and Great Britain. He retired in 1922 and became curator of Whitby Museum.[106] He was made an honorary member of The Royal Photographic Society in 1935. A gallery of his work is located on Flowergate.[107]
Pannett Park was built on land purchased by a local philanthropist and politician Alderman Robert Pannett in 1902. After his death in 1928, the trust he set up created a public park and art gallery.[108] In 1931 Whitby Museum was built behind the gallery by the Whitby Literary and Philosophical Society. It holds a collection of the archaeological and social history of jet and has on display a "Hand of Glory".[109] The Friends of Pannett Park, formed in 2005, successfully bid for a Heritage Lottery Fund grant to refurbish the park.[110] There has been a lifeboat in Whitby since 1802 and the old boathouse, built in 1895 and used until 1957, is a museum displaying the Robert and Ellen Robson lifeboat, built in 1919.[111]
Each year, on the eve of Ascension Day, the ancient Penny Hedge ceremony is performed. It commemorates a penance imposed by the Abbot on miscreant hunters in the Middle Ages.[112] On Ascension Eve the men had to cut wood in Eskdaleside with a knife that cost a penny and carry the wood on their backs to Whitby. There, before 9 o'clock in the morning, the wood was to be made into a hedge which had to survive three tides in the harbour. This tradition is carried out every year in the upper harbour on the east side.[113]
The Whitby Gazette was founded in 1854 by Ralph Horne, a local printer. The first issues were records of visitors and lodgings rather than a newspaper.[114] The publication became a weekly newspaper in 1858 and is now published twice weekly.[115] Local radio stations are BBC Tees and Yorkshire Coast Radio.[116][117]
The Pavilion Theatre built in the 1870s in West Cliff hosts a range of events during the summer months.[118] For over four decades the town has hosted the Whitby Folk Week and a bi-annual Whitby Gothic Weekend for members of the Goth subculture. "Whitby Now" is an annual live music event featuring local bands in the Pavilion which has taken place since 1991.[119] Since 2008, the Bram Stoker Film Festival has taken place in October.[120]

Wind surfing, sailing and surfing take place off the beaches between Whitby and Sandsend[121] and the area is visited by divers. Whitby has various sports facilities including the town cricket and football pitches and tennis courts. The Cleveland Way Long Distance Footpath follows the coast between Saltburn and Filey running along the developed frontage of Whitby.
The Whitby Regatta takes place annually over three days in August.[122] The competition between three rowing clubs – Whitby Friendship ARC, Whitby Fishermen's ARC and Scarborough ARC – forms the backbone of the weekend.[122] The event has expanded to include a fair on the pier, demonstrations, fireworks and military displays – including the spectacle of the Red Arrows aerobatics display team of the Royal Air Force.
Whitby Town F.C., formed in 1892, is an amateur football club which plays in the Northern Premier League at the 3,200 capacity Turnbull Ground on Upgang Lane.[123] Golfing facilities range from "pitch and putt" to Whitby Golf Club whose 18-hole golf course is situated on the cliff tops to the north west of the town.[124]
Literature

The town has a strong literary tradition. Part of Bram Stoker's novel Dracula was set in Whitby, incorporating pieces of Whitby folklore, including the beaching of the Russian ship Dmitri. Stoker discovered the name "Dracula" at the old public library on Marine Parade.[125] Elizabeth Gaskell set her novel Sylvia's Lovers partly in the town which she visited in 1859[126] and Lewis Carroll stayed at 5, East Terrace between July and September 1854: his first publications may have been published in the Whitby Gazette.[127]
Charles Dickens is known to have visited Whitby and in a letter of 1861 to his friend Wilkie Collins, who was at the time in Whitby, Dickens says:
"In my time that curious railroad by the Whitby Moor was so much the more curious, that you were balanced against a counter-weight of water, and that you did it like Blondin. But in these remote days the one inn of Whitby was up a back-yard, and oyster-shell grottoes were the only view from the best private room."[128][129]
Wilkie Collins stayed in Whitby to work on his novel, No Name. He was accompanied by Caroline Graves, the inspiration for The Woman in White.[130]
Mary Linskill was born in a small house at Blackburn's Yard, Whitby, in 1840. She first reached a wide readership when her second novel, Between the Heather and the Northern Sea, was published in 1884. Her last novel For Pity's Sake, was published posthumously in 1891.[131] James Russell Lowell, the American writer, often visited Whitby while ambassador in London 1880–85, staying at 3 Wellington Terrace, West Cliff.[132][133] On his last visit, in 1889, he wrote:
'This is my ninth year at Whitby and the place loses none of its charm for me.'[134]
The novel Possession: A Romance by A. S. Byatt set in the town was adapted into a 2002 feature film called Possession starring Gwyneth Paltrow.[135]
Other literary works referencing Whitby include:
- Caedmon's Song by Peter Robinson[136]
- The Hundred and Ninety Nine Steps by Michel Faber[137]
- The Resurrectionists by Kim Wilkins[138]
- The Whitby Witches trilogy by Robin Jarvis[139]
- Never the Bride, Something Borrowed, Conjugal Rites, Hell's Belles by Paul Magrs[140]
Twin cities
Whitby is twinned with a number of towns across the globe. They were all either visited by Captain Cook in ships that were built in Whitby – or were named after the original Whitby by settlers from England.
Anchorage, Alaska, United States[141]
Porirua, New Zealand[142]
Stanley, Falkland Islands[143]
Whitby, Canada[144]
Nukuʻalofa, Tonga[145]
Kauai County, Hawaii[146]
Osterode, Germany[147]
See also
References
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Whitby
- ^ Russell Lowell, James (2011). Letters of James Russell Lowell Part Two - Google Books. p. 376. Retrieved 14 August 2011.
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missing|last=
(help) - ^ "Whitby Witches by Robin Jarvis - Whitby Online". 2011. Retrieved 21 August 2011.
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- ^ "Mayor Maurice heading down under". Whitby Gazette. 17 December 2001. Retrieved 20 July 2011.
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- ^ "Visit marks 20th anniversary". Whitby Gazette. 4 June 2008. Retrieved 13 August 2011.
Notes
- a There was no United Kingdom census in 1941.
Further reading
- Barker, Malcolm (2006). Essence of Whitby. ISBN 1-905080-11-5.
- Barker, Rosalin (1990). The Book Of Whitby. ISBN 0-86023-462-2.
- Platt, Colin (1985). Whitby Abbey. ISBN 1-85074-456-4.
- Stamp, Cordelia (2006). Whitby Pictorial Memories. ISBN 1-85937-491-3.
- Waters, Colin (1992). A History of Whitby's Pubs, Inns and Taverns. ISBN 0-9519238-0-3.
- Waters, Colin (1992). Whitby, A Pictorial History. ISBN 0-85033-848-4.
- Waters, Colin (2004). Whitby Then and Now. ISBN 0-7524-3301-6.
- White, Andrew (2004). A History of Whitby. ISBN 1-86077-306-0.
External links
- Whitby Town Council
- Whitby Web Cam Live 180 degree high resolution view of Whitby
- Mapping the Town: the history of Whitby, presented by Julian Richards (BBC Radio 4) (RealAudio format)
- Template:Dmoz
- Tide times for Whitby from the BBC and Easytide.
- Whitby Coastal Walk BBC Coast programme
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