Sompot Chong Kben, early 20th century, Bunka Gakuen Costume Museum
Sompot Chong Kben, Centre national de la soie des Artisans d'Angkor

Sompot Chong Kben (Khmer: សំពត់ចងក្បិន, sâmpót châng kbĕn [sɑmput cɑːŋ kɓən])[1] is a Cambodian unisex, lower body, wraparound cloth. It was adopted in the neighboring countries of Laos, and Thailand,[2] where it is known as pha hang (ຜ້າຫາງ [pʰȁː hǎːŋ]) and chong kraben (โจงกระเบน [tɕōːŋ krābēːn]). It was the preferred choice of clothing for women of upper and middle classes for daily wear. Unlike the typical sompot, it is more of a pant than a skirt. The chong kraben is described by art historian Eksuda Singhalampong as "a garment that resembles loose breeches. The wearer wraps a rectangular piece of cloth around his [or her] waist, the edge of cloth is then passed between the legs and tucked in at the wearer's lower back. Many 19th-century European accounts often called them knee breeches, riding breeches or knickerbockers."[3]: Note 10 

Etymology

Sompot Chong Kben (សំពត់ចងក្បិន)[4] is a combination of three Khmer words; សំពត់ (/sɑmpʊət/,sampot),[5] a long, rectangular cloth worn around the lower body; ចង (/cɑɑŋ/, chang)[6] ,to wrap around; and ក្បិន (/kbən/, kben),[7] referring to the lower body cloth wrapped around the waist and then pulled back between the legs and tucked in at the back. The name of this cloth, kben or chong kben, literally means "to wrap or to wear the kben" in Khmer. Chong kraben (โจงกระเบน) is used among Thai people and derived from these Khmer words.

History

The history of sompot chong kben dates back to ancient Cambodia, where deities were often portrayed wearing such clothing. References to most Khmer elders tell a legend related to this garment. It said that a long time ago, the Khmer people wore sompot chong kben, following the Indian traditional wear of the dhoti[8] which was imported to Funan by King Kaundinya I.[9] Due to Indian influence, Suryavarman II built temples such as Angkor Wat which were dedicated to Hinduism. During the Khmer empire, most of the people were likely to read and see the Reamker at the Angkor Wat carving on the first floor as well. Prayers and blessings were also given to a deva known as Hanuman, the guard of Prince Rama in Ramayana as well as in the Khmer adaptation, Reamker. To show Hanuman's power, Indians wore the dhoti, and it is still worn for special occasions in mainland Southeast Asia.[10] In Ramayana mythology, Hanuman is a symbol of bravery, cleverness, and power, so people wearing the sompot chong kben drop a tail at the back like Hanuman's monkey tail. This practice led many people to believe that all Indians were guards of Hanuman. The influence of the dhoti was strongly incorporated into Khmer culture from ancient times to today.[11][12]

In the middle of the 13th and 14th centuries, people from the Thai Sukhothai Kingdom and Lao Lan Xang kingdom had adopted the wearing of sompot chong kben from Khmer.[13] They considered it superior for enjoying special occasions, and useful for royalty or monarchy in their local royal palace, leading to the Thai people and Lao people using sompot chong kben in a similar way.[14][12]

Images

See also

References

  1. ^ "SEAlang Dictionary". www.sealang.net. Retrieved 2023-10-11.
  2. ^ "Everything You Need to Know About Traditional Thai Dresses". Amazing Thailand. 6 March 2021. Men and women alike wear Chong Kben, a lower-body silk wrap-around garment adopted from Cambodia.
  3. ^ Singhalampong, Eksuda (March 2019). "Picturing Femininity: Portraits of the Early Modern Siamese Women". Southeast of Now: Directions in Contemporary and Modern Art in Asia. 3 (1): 49–75. doi:10.1353/sen.2019.0003. Retrieved 18 February 2020.
  4. ^ "SEAlang Dictionary". www.sealang.net. Retrieved 2023-10-11.
  5. ^ "SEAlang Dictionary". www.sealang.net. Retrieved 2023-10-11.
  6. ^ "SEAlang Dictionary". www.sealang.net. Retrieved 2023-10-11.
  7. ^ "SEAlang Dictionary". www.sealang.net. Retrieved 2023-10-11.
  8. ^ Green, Gillian. "Textiles at the Khmer Court". Arts of Asia. 30 (4): 82–92.
  9. ^ "Sompot Chong Kben". Archived from the original on 2012-02-26. Retrieved 2009-09-04.
  10. ^ *Sereysothera Archived November 3, 2010, at the Wayback Machine
  11. ^ "តើខ្មែរប្រើប្រាស់សម្លៀកបំពាក់ពីពេលណា?". Archived from the original on 2009-08-18. Retrieved 2009-09-04.
  12. ^ a b Nadeem, Zuha (2019-10-01). "Traditional Thai Clothing-16 Beautiful Outfits From Thailand". Outfit Trends - Ideas How to Wear & What to Wear. Retrieved 2020-03-09.
  13. ^ Highlights, Asia. "Thai Traditional Dress". Asia Highlights. Retrieved 2020-03-14.
  14. ^ "ខ្មែរស្លៀកសំពត់ចងក្បិនពីពេលណាមក ?".
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