James "Jim" Donini (born July 23, 1943) is an American rock climber and alpinist, noted for a long history of cutting-edge climbs in Alaska and Patagonia.[1] He was president of the American Alpine Club from 2006 to 2009,[2] and a 1999 recipient of the AAC's Robert and Miriam Underhill Award.[3]
Donini first began climbing in the 1960s while serving with the United States Army Special Forces.[4]
In 1978 Donini along with George Lowe spent 26 days climbing Latok's unclimbed North Ridge, which Donini has described as the "most awe inspiring and beautiful mountain cathedral on the planet".[5]
Notable climbs
- 1976 Torre Egger - First Ascent - with John Bragg, and Jay Wilson from the United States, by climbing first to the col between the Egger and Cerro Torre, the Col of Conquest, and then up the ridge to the peak. The ascent was hampered by bad weather and took from December 1975 to February 22, 1976 when the 3-person team summitted.[6]
- 1978 North Ridge on Latok I, Karakorum Range, Pakistan. Attempt with Michael Kennedy, George Lowe and Jeff Lowe (climber) (all USA).[7]
- 1991 Cobra Pillar on the east face of Mount Barrille, Ruth Gorge, Alaska Range, Alaska, USA (VI 5.10+ A3 WI5? 2300m) FA with Jack Tackle (USA), June 5–10, 1991.[8]
- 1991 Viper Ridge, south spur of southeast ridge to ridge, Mount Foraker, Alaska Range, Alaska USA. FA with Jack Tackle (USA), June 11–17, 1991.[9]
- 2000 Lightning Spur, south face Thunder Mountain, Alaska Range, Alaska USA. FA with John Bragg (USA).[10]
See also
Survival is not Assured: The Life of Climber Jim Donini by Geoff Powter, 2024. Mountaineers Books. ISBN 9781680515374
References
- ^ Owens, Rob (2006), "The Lure of Commitment: Alpinism's Hard Questions", Gripped, Toronto, Ontario, Canada, p. 45, ISSN 1488-0814
- ^ "Past Presidents". The American Alpine Club. Archived from the original on 2010-02-13. Retrieved Dec 24, 2009.
- ^ "The Robert and Miriam Underhill Award". The American Alpine Club. Archived from the original on 2009-07-14. Retrieved Dec 24, 2009.
- ^ Schaufele, Tim (2019-10-21). "Interview With American Alpine Legend Jim Donini | VIMFF". Squamish Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 2024-07-19.
- ^ Schaufele, Tim (2019-10-21). "Interview With American Alpine Legend Jim Donini | VIMFF". Squamish Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 2024-07-19.
- ^ Bragg, John (1977). "Torre Egger". American Alpine Journal. 21 (51). New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club: 49–56. ISBN 978-0-930410-31-5.
- ^ Kennedy, Michael (1979). "Latok I". American Alpine Journal. 22 (53). NYC, NY, USA: American Alpine Club: 24–28. ISSN 0065-6925.
- ^ Tackle, Jack (1992). ""Snake Bit" in the Alaska Range". American Alpine Journal. 34 (66). NYC, NY, USA: American Alpine Club: 59–64. ISBN 0-930410-51-3.
- ^ Tackle, Jack (1992). "'Snake Bit' in the Alaska Range". American Alpine Journal. 34 (66). NYC, NY, USA: American Alpine Club: 59–64. ISBN 0-930410-51-3.
- ^ Burcham, John (2001). "Thunder Mountain, South Face, New Route". American Alpine Journal. 45 (71). Golden, CO, USA: American Alpine Club: 205–2064. ISBN 0-930410-89-0.
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