Alex Honnold

Alex Honnold
Honnold in 2023
Personal information
Born (1985-08-17) August 17, 1985 (age 40)[1]
Sacramento, California, U.S.
OccupationRock climber
Spouse
Sanni McCandless
​
(m. 2020)​
Children2[2]
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known for
  • First-ever to free solo a 5.13a (7c+) grade big wall route
  • The first person to free solo a full route (from base to summit) on El Capitan via Freerider (5.13a)
  • Speed record holder on The Nose route of El Capitan
  • First person to free solo Taipei 101 building

Alexander J Honnold[3] (born August 17, 1985) is an American rock climber best known for his free solo ascents of big wall climbing routes. Honnold rose to worldwide fame in June 2017 when he became the first person to free solo a full route on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park via the 880-metre (2,900 ft) route Freerider at grade 5.13a, the first-ever big-wall free-solo ascent at that grade,[4] a climb described in The New York Times as "one of the great athletic feats of any kind, ever".[5][6]

In 2015, he won a Piolet d'Or in alpine climbing with Tommy Caldwell for their completion of the enchainment (known as the Fitz Traverse) of the Cerro Chaltén Group (or Fitzroy Group) in Patagonia over five days. On January 25, 2026, he free soloed the Taipei 101 tower in Taipei, Taiwan, the tallest buildering free solo climb in history and graded at circa. 5.11.

Honnold is the author (with David Roberts) of the memoir Alone on the Wall (2015) and the subject of the 2018 biographical documentary Free Solo,[7] which won an Academy Award and a BAFTA.

Early life and education

Honnold was born on August 17, 1985, in Sacramento, California. His mother, Dierdre Wolownick (b. 1951), is a community college professor.[8]. His father was Charles Honnold (1949–2004).[9][10] His paternal roots are German, and his maternal roots are Polish.[11] He started climbing in a climbing gym at the age of 5 and was climbing "many times a week" by age 10.[12] He participated in many national and international youth climbing championships as a teenager.

"I was never, like, a bad climber [as a kid], but I had never been a great climber, either," he says. "There were a lot of other climbers who were much, much stronger than me, who started as kids and were, like, instantly freakishly strong – like they just have a natural gift. And that was never me. I just loved climbing, and I've been climbing all the time ever since, so I've naturally gotten better at it, but I've never been gifted."[13]

After graduating from Mira Loma High School as part of the International Baccalaureate Programme in 2003, he enrolled at the University of California, Berkeley, to study civil engineering. His maternal grandfather died, his parents divorced during his first year of college, and Honnold skipped many of his classes to boulder by himself at Indian Rock.

Climbing career

Honnold dropped out of Berkeley and spent time living at home and driving around California to go climbing. "I'd wound up with my mom's old minivan, and that was my base," he said. "I'd use it to drive to Joshua Tree to climb or I'd drive to LA to see my girlfriend. I destroyed that van fairly quickly; it died on me one day, and for the next year, I lived just on my bicycle and in a tent."[14]

In 2007, he bought a 2002 Ford Econoline E150 van, which allowed him to focus on climbing and following the weather.[15][16]

According to a 2011 Alpinist profile:[15]

In the mind of the climbing world, Honnold emerged from the goo fully formed. In 2006 nobody had heard of him. In 2007 he free soloed Yosemite's Astroman and the Rostrum in a day, matching Peter Croft's legendary 1987 feat, and suddenly Honnold was pretty well-known. A year later, he free soloed the 1,200-foot (366m), 5.12d finger crack that splits Zion's Moonlight Buttress. The ascent was reported on April 1. For days, people thought the news was a joke. Five months afterward, Honnold took the unprecedented step of free soloing the 2,000-foot (610m), glacially bulldozed Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome. Croft called this climb the most impressive ropeless ascent ever done.

He gained mainstream recognition after his 2008 free solo of the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome was featured in the film Alone on the Wall[17] and a subsequent 60 Minutes interview.[18]

In November 2011, Honnold and Hans Florine missed setting the speed climbing record on the famous Nose big-wall crack climbing route on Yosemite's El Capitan by 45 seconds.[19] At the time the record stood at 2:36:45, as set by Dean Potter & Sean Leary in November 2010.[20] On June 17, 2012, Honnold and Florine set a new record of 2:23:46 (or 2:23:51[21]) on that same route.[22][23]

Honnold at the Trento Film Festival in 2014

In November 2014, Clif Bar announced that they would no longer sponsor Honnold, along with Dean Potter, Steph Davis, Timmy O'Neill and Cedar Wright. "We concluded that these forms of the sport are pushing boundaries and taking the element of risk to a place where we as a company are no longer willing to go," the company wrote in an open letter.[12][24]

In 2016, he was subjected to functional magnetic resonance imaging scans that revealed that, like other high sensation seekers,[25] his amygdala barely activates when watching disturbing images. He however confesses feeling fear occasionally. Through imagination and practice, he has desensitized himself to most fearful situations.[26]

El Capitan

Main article: Free Solo

On June 3, 2017, he made the first-ever free solo ascent of El Capitan by completing Alex Huber's 884m (2,900ft) big-wall crack climbing route, Freerider (5.13a VI), in 3 hours and 56 minutes.[27] The climb, described as "one of the great athletic feats of any kind, ever,"[6] was documented by climber and photographer Jimmy Chin and documentary filmmaker E. Chai Vasarhelyi, as the subject of the documentary Free Solo.[28] Among other awards, the film won the Academy Award for Best Documentary Feature (2018).[29][30]

On June 6, 2018, Honnold teamed up with Tommy Caldwell to break the Nose on El Capitan speed record in Yosemite. They completed the approximately 914m (3,000 ft) route in 1:58:07, becoming the first climbers to complete it in under two hours.[31]

Docuseries and podcast

In 2021, National Geographic signed Honnold for an original docuseries about his quest to climb across the peaks of Greenland.[32] Also in 2021, Honnold started a podcast about climbing called Climbing Gold.[33] In its first season, Climbing Gold focused on telling stories of extraordinary climbers across history and featured notable climbers and ascents including Lynn Hill, John Gill, Beth Rodden, Hans Florine, and coverage of the 2021 Tokyo Olympics, which featured competition climbing for the first time.

On October 12, 2022, Honnold completed the "Honnold Ultimate Red Rock Traverse", or HURT, in Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. In total, the endeavor took 32 hours and 6 minutes, with Honnold covering 35 miles of running, scrambling, and climbing, logging 24,000' of elevation gain, and summitting 18 out of the 23 peaks in Red Rock Canyon. Targeting the area's classic climbing routes, including Epinephrine, Dark Shadows, and Olive Oil, Honnold completed 126 pitches with about 13,000' of technical climbing.[34][35]

Taipei 101

Main article: Skyscraper Live (2026)

In 2025, Honnold announced his intention to free solo the 508 m (1,667 ft) tall Taipei 101, a Taiwanese skyscraper and the 11th tallest building in the world. He completed the climb on January 25, 2026, while being streamed live on Netflix in a special titled Skyscraper Live.[36][37][38] The upcoming climb was parodied by Saturday Night Live in a sketch featuring Mikey Day as Honnold, and Finn Wolfhard from Stranger Things.[39]

Honnold was scheduled to climb Taipei 101 on January 24, 2026, but the climb was delayed a day due to inclement weather. On January 25, 2026, after 1 hour and 36 minutes, he reached the top of the spire, becoming the second person to do so after Frenchman Alain Robert and the first person to do it without the use of a rope.[40] Honnold graded the route in the 5.11 (6c+) range.[41]

Personal life

Honnold in 2022

Honnold lived in a van for over a decade. "I don't think 'van life' is particularly appealing," he says. "It's not like I love living in a car, but I love living in all these places. I love being in Yosemite; I love being basically wherever the weather is good; I love being able to follow good conditions all over. And be relatively comfortable as I do it. And so that pretty much necessitates living in a car ... If I could, like, miraculously teleport a house from place to place, I'd prefer to live in a nice comfortable house. Though, honestly, the van is kind of nice. I like having everything within arm's reach. When I stay in a hotel room – like, sometimes you get put up in a really classy hotel room, and it's really big, and you have to walk quite a ways to the bathroom, and you're like, 'Man, I wish I had my [pee] bottle.' Who wants to walk all the ways to the bathroom in the middle of the night when you could just lean over and grab your bottle and go?"[42]

"It is kind of a pet peeve when you get put in really nice hotel rooms and it's really far between... When you're used to living in a van, you want everything within a six foot radius. It doesn't make any sense to go bumbling in the dark, trying to find the bathroom."[43] The van he lived in was custom-outfitted with a kitchenette and cabinets.[12]

In 2017, Honnold bought a home in the Las Vegas area. "I didn't have any furniture at first, so I lived in the van in the driveway for the first couple weeks. It felt more like home than an empty house did."[14] Around the same time, he replaced the Ford Econoline van he had lived in since 2007 and put 200,000 miles (320,000 km) on a new 2016 Ram ProMaster, which he still lives and travels in for most of the year.[42]

Honnold is a vegetarian, and he does not drink alcohol or use drugs.[13] Between climbs, he runs or hikes to maintain fitness.[1] He is an avid reader with interests in classic literature, environmentalism, and economics, and he describes himself as an anti-religion atheist[44][45] and a feminist.[46]

Honnold met Sanni McCandless at a book signing in November 2015; they became a couple soon after.[47] Sanni and her relationship with Honnold feature prominently in Free Solo. On December 25, 2019, Honnold announced, via social media, that he and McCandless were engaged. On September 13, 2020, Honnold announced via Instagram that he and McCandless had married.[48] Honnold's and McCandless's daughter, June, was born on February 17, 2022.[49] Their second daughter, Alice Summer, was born on February 6, 2024.[50]

Dierdre Wolownick, Alex Honnold's mother, started climbing at age 60 and is the oldest woman to climb El Capitan (first at the age of 66 and then, breaking her record, again at age 70).[51][52]

Philanthropy

In 2012, Honnold began giving away one-third of his income to solar energy projects[53], to increased energy access worldwide. Soon, this idea expanded to form the Honnold Foundation, which prioritizes a "trust-based philanthropic approach". Per Honnold, "in climbing, you trust your partner with your life. Why should philanthropy be any different?"[54]

Books

Filmography

While Honnold is best known for his starring role in the Oscar-winning documentary Free Solo, he has also appeared in several other films and television episodes.[55][56][57]

Awards

Selected climbs

Big wall climbing

Year Route Location Style Height Time Difficulty Notes
2007 Freerider Yosemite Free ascent 3,000 ft / 37 pitches One day VI 5.13a One day free ascent with Brian Kimball[70]
2007 Astroman and The Rostrum Yosemite Free solo 10 + 8 pitches One Day 5.11c, 10 pitches First-ever repeat of Peter Croft's 1987 'free solo in one day'[71]
2007 Salathé Wall Yosemite Free ascent 3,000 ft / ~35 pitches VI 5.13b/c Eleventh free ascent[70]
2008 Bushido and Hong Kong Phooey Utah Traditional 5.13+, 5.13b–5.14 Climbed two challenging crack routes in Utah.[72]
2008 Moonlight Buttress Zion, Utah Free solo 1,200 ft / 9 pitches 83 minutes V 5.12d, 1200 ft First free solo[73]
2008 Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome Yosemite Free solo 2,000 ft / 23 pitches 2 hours 50 minutes 5.12a First free solo[74]
2012 The Nose Yosemite, El Capitan Speed climb 2,900 ft / ~31 pitches 2:23:46 VI 5.8 A2 Former speed record of 2:23:46 with Hans Florine[22][75]
2012 The Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome Yosemite Speed solo 2,000 ft / 23 pitches 1:22 5.12a [76]
2012 Fiesta de los Biceps[77] Riglos, Aragon, Spain Free solo (flash) 242 m (800 ft) / 7 pitches[78] 7a [79]
2012 Yosemite Triple Crown Yosemite Link-up 18:50 Various Solo link-up of three iconic Yosemite routes. (Mt. Watkins, El Capitan, and Half Dome)[76]
2014 Pre Muir Yosemite, El Capitan Free climb V 5.13c/d Climbed with Josh McCoy.[80]
2014 Muir Wall – Shaft Variation Yosemite, El Capitan Speed climb 12 Hours V 5.13b/c Speed record ascent.[80]
2014 El Corazon Yosemite, El Capitan Speed climb 15:30 V 5.13b Speed record ascent.[81]
2014 El Sendero Luminoso El Potrero Chico, Mexico Free solo 1,750 ft, 15 pitch Just over 3 hours V 5.12d First free solo ascent[82]
2014 University Wall Squamish, British Columbia, Canada Free solo 8 pitches 2 hours (car-to-car) 5.12a C2 First free solo[83][84]
2016 Complete Scream Northern Ireland, United Kingdom Free Solo 200 ft E8 6b Notable climb in Northern Ireland.[85][86][87]
2017 Freerider Yosemite, El Capitan Free solo 3,000 ft / 37 pitches 3 hours 56 minutes 5.13a VI First-ever big wall free solo at the grade of 5.13a (7c+).[88][89]
2018 The Nose Yosemite, El Capitan Speed Climb 2,900 ft / ~31 pitches 1:58:07 VI 5.8 A2 Speed record with Tommy Caldwell[90][91]
2019 El Niño Yosemite, El Capitan Free climb 3,000 ft VI 5.13c Second entirely free ascent via the Pineapple Express variation with Brad Gobright.[92]
2019 Passage to Freedom Yosemite, El Capitan Free climb 3,000 ft VI 5.13d First free ascent with Tommy Caldwell[93]
2022 Ingmikortilaq sea cliff in eastern Greenland Free ascent 3,750-foot First ascent of a sea cliff, climbed with Hazel Findlay.[94]
2023 The Heart Route Yosemite, El Capitan Free climb 3,000ft VI 5.13b, V10 Third free ascent
2024 Triple Rainbow Rainbow Wall, USA Free climb Dreefee (11 pitch 5.13d), Desert Solitare (11 pitch 5.13b) and Rainbow Country (13 pitch 5.12d). 5.13d First free ascent of a link up of Dreefee, Desert Solitare and Rainbow Country

Bouldering

Year Route Location Style Height Time Difficulty Notes
2010 Ambrosia Bishop, California Bouldering V11 8A Second ascent[95]
2011 The Mandala Bishop, California Bouldering V12 8A+ [96]
2012 Too Big to Flail Bishop, California Bouldering V10 7C+ or 8b (5.13d) First ascent[97]

Buildering

Year Route Location Style Height Time Difficulty Notes
2026 Taipei, Taiwan Free solo 1,667 ft (508 meters) 1 hour 32 minutes Honnold estimated it at circa 5.11 (6c+)[41] Streamed live on Netflix[98]

Single pitch (sport and traditional) climbing

Year Route Location Style Height Time Difficulty Notes
2008 Parthian Shot, New Statesman, Meshuga (solo) London Wall, on-sight solo; in England. Free solo Varies Multiple solos and flashes[99]
2010 The Green Mile Jailhouse crag, San Francisco Sport climb 5.14c(8c+) [100]
2010 Rainbow Arch Ennedi Desert, Chad Top-rope 5.12+ First ascent[101][102]
2011 Heaven and Cosmic Debris Yosemite National Park Free solo 5.12d, 5.13b [103]
2011 The Phoenix Yosemite National Park Free solo 5.13a The Phoenix was the first-ever consensus 5.13a in history.[104]
2011 Cobra Crack Squamish, British Columbia Traditional climb 5.14b Ascent is etched in a board between that of Will Stanhope and Pete Whittaker[105]
2019 Arrested Development Mount Charleston, Nevada Sport climb 9a 5.14d Second ascent of sport climbing route after Jonathan Siegrist.[106]
2024 Manphibian Mount Charleston, Nevada Sport climb 9a 5.14d [107]

Alpine climbing

Year Route Location Style Height Time Difficulty Notes
2009 Unnamed Low's Gully, Borneo Attempted free ascent VI 5.12 A2 Attempted first free ascent[108][109][110]
2014 The Fitz Roy Traverse Fitz Roy massif, Patagonia Alpine 5,000 m 5 Days 5.11d C1 65 degrees, 5000m Completed over five days with Tommy Caldwell[111][112]
2016 Torre Traverse Patagonia Alpine Under 21 Hours Second traverse (north-to-south) of the Cerro Torre Group. Completed with Colin Haley.[113]
2023 Diablo Traverse Devils Thumb, Alaska Alpine Under 24 Hours 5.10 A2 Second traverse of the range. Completed with Tommy Caldwell.[114]

See also

References

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Further reading

allikas: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alex_Honnold